The Archive · 1888

To the Gorges

Tchang is so merged in the grandeur of Gorges that it may interest some people o hear how you walk from one to the ther.' It had been about the hottest day tis year but towards five it clouded over, instead of starting in the houseboat Tdecided to go on foot, the boy saying he Jnew the way, and' our -good Consul ofering to accompany me in starting. We went through some of those particularly anil exceptionally—even for China—smelly cal caves, that form the suburb of Ichang, where Sir Thomas Wade arranged for Eug-Jia people to live, without even giving them the least power to purify their surroundings. And then just as the stinks wore mal us feel more than low, absolutely escaped out of them temporarily under the City Wall. There is @ very picturesque bit such as Prout would have loved to paint, just as one turns aside, and instead Of entering the city, pursues the path in the deep shadow of the wall, looking across the dry moat over the surrounding country, the rice fields, and the hills behind them, with on the top of the highest a Templo—the new one lately built to remove the ban resting over the town from the evil influence of the steep pyramid hill exactly over against it. But we soon found ourselves there were wax trees covered with white tidy. "There was the egg plant growing, and Firat have tea," I said, and resolutely sat down on a bench under the great tallow feathery flowers, but for the rest the tree. The view was very beautiful, and crops were unknown to me. Everyone the moonlight ideal. There were only a here was. very civil, Only two little girls, few wretched material contorts. wanted on catching sight of me, fled on the wings attending to. For one thing it would have of terror to the infinite amusement of my bees een pleasanter if all the children of the povbehteneas but to no avail. We had who kept calling out to them not to village had not congregated round. However when asked to sit a little further, they to take three separate ferry-boats across actually did so. Presently a basin of cold branches of the Unknown river, as it is tea was brought, that is to say it was luke-led, because no foreigner has yet ex-warm that did not seem inviting. So-we plored it. It flows into the Ys tried cold water. But the water was just before Sam-yeu-tung, and takes its also lukewarm and there was rather Rise in the mountains that divide us more taste in it than in the tea, Boat no here from the valley of the Han. After can walkee. More better we go Isang," the last crossing the country quite altered said the boy. in character. One at once breathed However we waited till boiling tea was the breath of the Gorges, and the trees, brought us. And then it was obviously vegetation and everything assumed a roman-necessary to wait till it had cooled some-tic character. Through our right we passed what before drinking it. And that tea was by what looked like a fine country house 80 delicious it was impossible to move bewith a great variety of shrubs in its garden. fore drinking it all up.—'Now you can Beyond it there was a sequestered Temple. take a sampan," I said, Go. Isang," Unfortunately it was darkening in. And asked the boy? But he also found his tea alas! nowhere any signs of the houseboat, which I had been assured would reach que delicious, so there was a little more Sam-yeu-tung long before us, so favourable When we got into the sampan it seemed had n the breeze at starting. What a pity not to row a little way up the Glen first called my attention to this was the to see if any fresh drinking water were to great beauty of the reflections at that be had up there. It felt deliciously fresh in the suburbs again, long, long streets of gateway to the Gorge, which however and cool the narrowness of the Glen creat-suburbs, shop after op for selling crackers, often seen can never cease to charm. With ing a current of air. Then we rowed down apparently the only manufacture; a man selling curious shapes of sugar each set upon be any breeze. And if the buat cape those reflections there could not ably stream. "Tell the men they must on no account miss the houseboat. They must little sticks; and a generally greater pre-arrived already, it could not do so for valence of sore heads than I think I have yet, seen anywhere in China. I should hours. The people we met reported that keep a good look out, "I said to the boy,

like to invite some of my dear Radical was no foreign t at Saw-yeu-tung, or and sat myself down'at the bottom of the boat to enjoy looking up the gorge in the rather one after another they said they moonlight. " Boat no can walkee" said English friends to walk with me down such had not noticed it, if it had been there. the boy, But within an hour we saw" street, and seo if they could hold their And we thought we should notice it too, light, and there was the (Cristifor) Iahands from interference in the presence of much dirt and disease. My own imnow, but it might be Lying hid under the shadow of the rocks. Only one thing was boriously tracking her way up size, Wo hailed her and a little before 9 o'clock pression is that Mr. Jacob Bright himself certain, if not already arrived it was no-got on board, and next morning before the might be capable of introducing summary where visible coming up. And my boy at sun rose rowed up to San-yeu-tung, and compulsory ablations. The crowd that once said ' more better we take sampan—anchored up the narrow glen where a di looked at us from one doorway was so go Isang." However that was not to be pool offered a most delightful bath." And extraordinarily dirty, ugly, and ill clad, thought of. The path presently became that is one way of arriving at the gorges that I must either have wept or laughed very rough to find one's way along from Ichang. But with a fair breeze you over them, especially us the wholly naked thin boots in the dark. How is it so might sail there in about an hour. children in front as usual fled to the back many men assure me they always wear of the crowd as I came near, and everyone thin boots in China? I never put on else laughed too at their fear. But prob-any but my thickest winter boots in Chi

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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