The Archive · 1890

Miscellaneous

RECOLLECTIONS OF LIFE IN CHINA IN THE FIFTIES

In the spring of 1857, I, with several friends, left Hongkong for Shanghai, vid Foochow, in the small coasting steamer Antelope. No noteworthy incident occurred until after leaving Foochow when, 8 we were enjoying our after dinner coffee and cigars, and by chance discussing the question of thirteen sitting down at table that had occurred at a dinner at which one of the party had shortly before been present, a violent thump and tremulous motion of the vessel announced the unpleasant fact that we had struck upon something. We rushed on deck and found the steamer hard and fast on a reef near Matsu Island, Fortunately the day was ting and there was no sea on.

Our captain, who was a well-known character on the coast, whatever he may have been asa navigator, assured us that the tide was low, and that when it rose we should goon float off. We waited patiently for this happy termination of our troubles, but the afternoon wore on, and the tide, instead of rising continued to fall; as it did no, the steamer careened more and more until che reached an angle at which there was serious danger of her slipping off suddenly and filling with water, Then spars were got out to shore her up, the water was pumped from her tanks, and what cargo had, consisting of several hundred slabs of tin, was thrown overboard. Still the tide continued to recede, night came on, and what added to the peril of ant situation was the fact that all along that part the pirates were rampant, and we might expect to be attacked by thew at any moment, Our steamer was well armed, as were all foreign vessels trading on the coast at that time, and carried 32-pounder gun, but, situated as we were, it wus, of course quite impossible to use it. All the small however, were brought into requisition, and throughout the night we sat in a most uncomfortable position with our guna ready for use at a moment's notice, had frequent alarms, as a number of native craft came near us, but, doubtless, presuming we were simply at anchor did not molest us. Our captain quite lost hi head, and swore he would blow his brei out if he failed to get the vessel off. The first officer, however, fortunately was cool and collected, and it was by his efforts that necessary steps were taken fur protecting the steamer and ultimately getting her out of the perilous position she wasin. Ata later date Colonel Ward, the commander of the ever victorious Chinese army was pointed out to me, and I was certain that in him I recognised the quondam first officer of the Antelope, who had shown much self-possession on this occasion. Soon after day-break, the water being then high, an anchor was run out, and with much difficulty, and when. we had almost given up hope, as the water was falling again, more floated on an even keel. We then the vessel glided off the rocks and once descried some boats full ut men starting off from the shore, and our captain, who had recovered his courage ordered the 32- pounder gun to be loaded, and sent two or three shells among them, which soon turned them back; but, as the steamer was not looking, and having steam up was now again under control and ready to resume her voyage, this appeared to me to be a. most uncalled-for and cowardly proceeding, the more so as we had no reason to suppose their intentions towards us were of a hostile nature. However, such eccentricities on the part of captains navigating these waters were not uncommon in those days. After this all went smoothly until we were in the Yangtzekiang, going up the river, with a fair tide and at full speed. We were) queue with scissors. The man operated at table in the evening and having a game of whist with the cap-! tain, expecting to be at Woosung in! another hour, when the anchor was let go, and the captain left us, quietly going on deck and saying he would be back in a moment. We accordingly remained seated, looking over the cards that had just been dealt, and awaiting the resumption of the game, until it appeared the captain was keeping us an unreasonable time, when we also went on deck to find out what had become of him. The night was dark and cold, and the vessel lying at anchor, the only sound to be heard being the gurgling of the water as the swift current swept by. We searched in vain for our crafty skipper, who was nowhere to be! found; bat as we were returning shivering to our warm quarters below, the steward, in response to our enquiries, informed us with a@cuuning leer that he had left in his boat and gone up to shanghai. We then realised that we had been nicely tricked, and were the unfortunate predicament in which passengers often found themselves in those days who travelled by private steamers. The captain had carried with him opium news of importance, and we were to be kept on board in durance vile until his consignees had time to operate and make the most of it. All the next day, and the next after that we spent on board the steamer in the muddy and cheerless waters of the river; we tried in vain to get a China boat to take us off, but it was of no avail, for whenever one showed a disposition to come alongside, a warning voice from the steamer caused her to sheer off. 'At last when our patience was nearly exhausted, and after two days' delay, the steamer got under way again and soon we were in Shanghai, when profuse apologies were made for the detention to which we had been subjected, with the usual " you know how it was," &e., with which we had perforce to be content, resolving however never again to be caught in a similar trap if we could help it.

W. S. Werwone.

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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