The Archive · 1888

Ta Long Shan

The great charm of Ta Long Shan is the unexpected beauty of the walks, One wanders along among firs and azaleas, and all on a sudden finds oneself on an elevated plateau standing out right in the midst of valley, and commanding a prospect of ssu loveliness. Yet amongst all the others I fancy the walk to Sze Ling carries away the palm, and by those at all pressed for time this may be taken on the way from Suowy Valley to Ta Long Shan. The rocks and little precipices add greatly to the beauty of the scene, but its splendour cannot be put into words. Only the artist could attempt to deal with that; at the same time it is worth noting that the variety of foliage would make the steep lant gardening, had itali been planted descent down to Sze Ling a triumph of

by the most skilful of gardeners instead of ning wild, Azaleas of varied tints and in full flower overhang the precipices firs crown them. Beneath are groves of golden bamboos, Chinese palms, Chinese pines, fresh green larches, flowering holly, Osmunda Regalis with a whole following of ferns all putting out fresh fronds; running water; and opposite ranged along the hillside ina commanding situation, the vell built picturesque farmsteads of Sze ing.

At Chin-ngan there is the same sort of headland standing out, commanding there an all-round view, bnt not with quite the same charm of character as Sze Ling. One of the delights of the neighbourhood of Ta Long Shan is the extreme friend-lines and" hospitality of the people. Heated with walking it is very pleasant to be welcomed with hot tea—reall sometimes of delicious tlavour—in the cool, dark guest-room of a farm house. We had eggs brought to us also, with salt; no bread of course: wine and pipes were offered, also an ewer of hot water with a cloth steeped in it, with which one is meant to cool one's face and neck. No fashion could be more sensible, and acceptable, But it requires some resolution to make use of the cloth, that has probably already served so many a Chinaman, although steeped in hot water.

'The women wear a variety ut pretty pins in their hair, sometimes sticking out so far, that I wondered if no young miss, toddling about on her poor deformed feet, had put out younger brother's eye' with her projecting pins.

As the weather grew hotter we had the pleasure of witnessing two thunder storms at Ta Long Shan. But all was cool with rapidly moving white mist, when we wended our way downward through the valley of Wu Ling Day always increasing in beauty think it the lov I travelled through, although Val Panaise in far off Madeira rise up befure me, rather reproachfully, on saying so, with chestnut trees ever waving; many branches and pale pink Bella Donna lilies bowing their heads distressed, But for one thing Wu Ling Day is much longer and more varied. People who have been in Japan say it is like Japan, only finer. It is very fine though not in the least grand. Its feature, or one of its tentures is its magnificent tallow trees. Laurel trees, one arch of white flower, also added much to its beauty as we passed through. It has a romantic character that made one wish all Shanghai could be transported bodily for one gladsome saunter, togo back refreshed. At Ta Jow the stream we had so long followed became navigable, and we took boats, and shot rapids through a still most beautiful scene. Everywhere by the side elegant footpaths with well kept flights of steps, and many peasants walking along them, Everywhere rest houses, which with grand Ancestral Halls are a great feature in the province of Chekiang.

Having read a most pleasing account in

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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