hose who-are fortunate enough to be able (get away from Shanghai during the summer," are sometimes at a loss to determine to What place they should berake themselves, 80 that they can not only escape have been lucky enough to obtain. And the great leat but enjoy the holiday they in these hard times another consideration of vital importance is how this change and enjoyment can be secured without trenching too heavily on the finances. The holiday port of North China is certainly Chefoo, which is visited every summer by many ladies and children and a few men from Shanghai who are in a position to leave the latter place... The climate is favourable -and the sea bathing excellent, and as the "run from Shanghai to Chefoo is done under posed that many men who can obtain a few forty-eight hours, it would naturally be sup-noon on the Ist September, but we were all rather disappointed to find that the ys' holiday would spend them at Chefoo. steamer did not go into the inner harbour, But this is not the case. The rival steam-but anchored outside about two miles from ship companies cut down the rates of the settlement. However, after the Che-freight and native passage charges, but mulpo passengers had left the ship, the they levy excessive rates foreigners, the single trip to Chefoo costing Captain kindly took the Shanghai trippers ashore in his gig, and showed us the sights over $27, and the return trip about $44, while the accommodation afforded by the of Chemulpo. It is a dreadfully unattractive spot, and the entire settlement can be steamers running to Chefoo is very poor. ins] in half an hour. What is called In fact, foreign passengers have to put up the native town lies outside the foreign with a minimum of comfort at a maximum settlement and consists of a collection of of cost, and consequently Chefoo is avoided evil-smelling huts, which are largely built by many who would be happy to visit the port if they could do so at a less outrageous whatever is to be purchased in the way of of worn-out rice and bein bags, but charge for conveyance. I have previously native production has to be obtained pointed out in these columns how con-here, though there is very little chance of side rate the Nippon Yusen Kaisha are to spending money. Of curios there are travellers by their steamers, both in treatment and charge. There are no steamers ile the unwary. One of our passengers a all, and no, native pottery to in these waters more pleasant to travel in bought a few native fans at what appeared than those of the Japan Mail line, and to bea very dear price, but he consoled they are largely availed of by Shanghai himself with the reflection that he did not residents who make holiday trips to Japan. know what they ought to cost, and didn't The Nippon Yusen Kaisha have now intend to enquire. Some of the native opened out another holiday route which women were seen in the streets, but they will be a boon to Shanghailangers. The were ugly in feature, so far as could be steamer Satsuma Maru, which was former-seen under their head covering, and hideous ly on the Japan line, leaves Shanghai once in dress, The native men were numerous, a month for a run to Viadivostock, on the mostly doing nothing, as usual. The active way up calling at Chefuo, Chemulpo, business of the place appears to be in the Nagasaki, Fusan and Gensan, and on the hands of the Japanese, who have a settle-and Nagasaki again. Be round trip is return to Shanghai calling at Gensan, Fusan ment of their own fairly well laid out and properly policed. There is a Japanese post done in twenty-four or twenty-five days, Bfiee where mail notices, are" posted in and passengers need not Jeave the steamer English, and small as the whole settlement except for a short time at Vladivostock. is, the inevitable Japanese pillar letter boxes The Satswna Maru has very good accom-abound, though the central post office could modation for passengers, and the table is be reached by any resident in three minutes. abundantly supplied with a large variety The capital, Seoul, is only 27 miles distant of good things, but it must be admitted by road, but according to all accounts travel-that reformation is required in the purser's ling overland is not easy or comfortable. and steward's departments. There is no A small steamer runs on the river to a indication that the company stint the supply point about three miles from Seoul, but of good, provisions, but the best is not owing to the natural peculiarities of this made of much that is supplied, and the stream the distance to be travelled is over steward is not smart enough to get the sixty miles, and no reliance can be placed good fresh fish, ete., that can be obtained on the hour that is announced for the at the ports touched at, nor has he the departure of this packet boat, consequent-requisite control over the servants beneath ly a trip to Seoul can only be made him. Then the purser failed to supply when there is ample time at one's dis-himself with a sufficient stock of wines, As we only expected to stay and though we were at Nagasaki on the 4th about twenty-four hours in Chemulpo we instant, previous to the journey northwards, never contemplated a visit to the capital, it did not seem to occur to him that he though as it turned out we might have might procure a stock of wines from the plished this. On the day of our agency or from the Shanghai mail steamers arrival the weather was quite fine, and of the company then in port. It would be there would have been plenty of time to impossible to find more obliging officers discharge and take in all the cargo during than those on board the Satsuma Maru, the first afternoon, but we had arrived' a or pleasanter men to travel with, and it is day before our schedule time, and to-certain that CaptainSommer wins the hearts morrow " was good enough for the Japanese of his passengers in a few hours' time, so to send off cargo, as usual. However, the kind, considerate, and attentive is he to next day turned out wet and stormy and every one of them without exception. The the cargo boat was unable to reach the above mentioned objections may appear steamer, so we lay all the day doing nothing. to be of a trivial nature, but they are pre-Next day, Saturday the 3rd, the weather cisely those failings which irritate pashad cleared up, and so we discharged and sengers, and which can be rectified with took in-all cargo during-the morning and very little trouble. No doubt when the left Chemulpo at noon. It was certain steward becomes better acquainted with provoking to have to lie for forty-eight the passenger traffic than he is at present, hours at so uninteresting a place, and many he will reform the management of his de-of us would gladly have braved the dispartment. comforts of a trip to Seoul had we known Now the most commendable thing about how much time was to be at our disposal, the trip to Viadivostock is the extremely if only for the sake of doing som moderate mte at which it can be accom There are very few European or American alished, asthe Nippon, Yunen Kaisha only residents at Chemulpo, and it must be a Viadivostock and $100 for the round trip, charge $60 for a first d ingle passage to dreadfully dull place to live in; and awin,
and 2 comparison of this—24 days for to the exceptionally high rise and fall tide, which leaves an enormous expanse of $100—with the monstrous rate charged for mud in front of the settlement at low a forty-five hours' passage to Chefoo by the water, it is an unsavoury port, while -in regular steamers, will show how worthy of consequence of the existence of so much support from travellers are the Nippon mud, good sea bathing cannot be ob-Yusen Kaisha. tained. There are three European ladies The Satsuma Marc left Shanghai on the residing at Chemulpo, one being the wife 28th August with several passengers on of the English Consul, one the wife of the board, and arrived at Chefoo on the 30th, Commissioner of Customs, and the other staying there only one day. At Chefoo the wife of the Harbour Master. But even there was a large influx of passengers at such a deserted and dull port as Chemulwhose destination was Chemulpo. We had po the conveyances of society must be kept pleasant run across to that port, the up; so that the two first named-ladies have weather being fine, arriving shortly after nothing to do with the Harbour Master's
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.