LETTER FROM A MEMBER OF THE MISSION
LYONNAISE, We occupied thirteen days in the descent from Chungking to Ichang being delayed by our stopping to visit the various Catholic missionaries on the route. None of the old rapids appeared to us particularly dangerous although, owing to the carelessness of the masters of the junks in using worn-out towing lines, the wrecks are very numerous.
To resume my impressions—It is a dis-to Europe, and more especially to that nation which has the chief commercial interests at stake, not yet to have made the ascent to Chungking by steam. We have been more venturesome in Tongking, and in Egypt your compatriots on the Nile are not less enterprising.
Tt is evident to me that the exaggerated statements of the Chinese made to prevent steamers attempting to go above Ichang, are given too ready credence to by the timid and confiding Europeans, who let themselves be arrested by fantastic obstacles.
And further, the Europeans on this side of the gonges appear to fear the Chinese more than we do in Szechuan. There is a want of enterprise, and, for this reason, those who have hitherto attempted to compass the navigation of the Upper Yangtze ere worthy of our grateful admiration.
As to the new rapid—the Hing-lungt'an—the '"Glorious"—it is situated between Wanhsien and Yunyanghsien, about 451i above the latter city, at a place called Mafengtd, alittleway below the village of Panto. It has been brought about by a landslip on the left bank of the river, at a spot where there was no rapid before, and just opposite a long reef of rocks' that runs down the centre of the river, breaking; two channels. The north channel is the one obstructed by the land-slide; the current impinges upon the ocks on the north shore, then strikes another rock thrown forward into the river, and forming a point tofore it falls away inthe channel. Upon the south bank, the current, in a similar manner, strikes against the old reef, which forms a bar occupying the centre of the streen and there meets the current thrown back from the point on the north bank.
These two currents united form a great wave which, according to the Chinese, conceals three or four big rocks which occupy the centre of the channel. To the left of the waves, that is to say, under the right bank, is an enormous whirlpool, which' seizes any descending junk not successfully steered, carries it to the rocks in the middle, and wrecks it on the big reef which divides the river into two arms.
The junks bound down first discharge their cargoes and then row down the centre of this channel, leaving the sunken rocks on the left hand. The passage, dangerous as it is, is cleared in a few seconds, We saw only one descending junk thrown upon the rocks, but the rench missionaries coming up saw three Jost, one small one totally disappearing. The Chinese say that two to three hundred men have already lost their lives in the new rapid since the day of its formation—9th September. This may be an exaygeration. The terrors of the Anpien rapid above Suifu had already hardened us, so that we requested our Laopan to let us reniain on board, and it was only after his refusal to undertake such a responsibility, that we were compelled to abandon the excitement of making the descent on board. actual danger as great as generally im-Consequently we did not consider the
gained.
Before descending, the junks strengthen their big bow-sweep with two lateral joists, lish the Kuli with hawsers atid rig up a mat in front to break the waves that tumble on "The upward-bound junks, after having discharged their cargoes, take their place in rank along the north bank, ina little bay formed by the giving way of the shore at the foot of the rapid. They are then held fast by two cables at the stern and three ahead, so as to prevent them from breaking away from the shore, and are then hauled up by four long hawsers carried ahead. The three first lines work at a great distance, from the top of the cliff of sand and boulders, upon which has been built the lower portion of the new village; the fourth line tows the junk at a less distance, the trackers walking over the broken rocks strewn along the bank. The dangerous part of the passage for ascending junks extends a distance of about forty yards and the transit occupies some three quarters of an hour.
The cargo has to he transported a considerable distance (depending upon the position taken up by the junk at its arrival and its departure), but not exceeding two and a half to three kilometers. The cost of transhipping a cargo is about twenty-five taels; of course the coolies try to "squeeze" as much as possible. We estimated the number of people occupied at the new rapid at about ten thousand, iving some in huts, many in boats moored along the shore. The movement is something extraordinary; a crowd of soldiers, coolies, innkeepers, and sailors form the heterogenous population of the new village.
"The road taken by the goods during their transportation suffices at present but must be very bad in wet weather.
Tdonot think that even in its present condition there is anything in the new rapid to prevent the ascent of a steamer, provided chain cables and steam winches are employed, as on the Red River in Tongking.
At the coming low water season, the rocks in the middle of the rapid will probably appear above water and could then be removed with dynamite,—as also the bulk of those on the north shore.
This rapid has not yet had experience of the high water; I believe that then a great part of the fallen rocks above the rapid j th will be washed away. Besides, in flood time, the channel situated between the central reef and the south shore will be available for navigation. Europeans could easily dig a canal along this south shore which would serve at all stages of the water.
Were I your compatriot, my dear Sir, I should be unable to avoid a feeling of vexathe Bfekong above the rapids of Kong up tion at French gunboats having ascended
to Luang Prabang* which, if I am right, are of a far more difficult nature than is the Hing-lung T'an. This rapid can be remedied in my opinion. How was it formed The first land-slide took place half-way up the moutain,-some 300 to 400 yards distant from the river, on the north bank. The vertical displacement of the first lot of land produced a horizontal displacement of the ground nearer the river. The rocks by the shore, which now form the rapid, are covered with bavure ejected from the soil by the pressure. We saw a banian tree which has thus made a short journey of 130 yards about.
According to the Chinese tle sliding movement. still goes on, though slowly. I myself failed to observe it.
One curious fact was brought about. Land belonging to one farmer has buried that of his neighbour lower down. To whom now does the field which is covered up by that of the first man belong?—The mandarin has decided the question by dividing the land into two equal portions.
The mandarin of Yunyang has, it is said, interrogated the rapid. The latter replied I am rapid and exercise my function of rapid; thou art mandarin, attend to tly matidarin bossiness:"
True or false, the fact remains that the old Chinese Dragon still watches over the integrity of Szechuan.
Ichang, 14th December, 1896.
"The fall thence to the sea is 3,000 feet against 500 feet only between Ichang and Chungking.—Ev.]
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.