The Archive · 1899

London Fashion Letter

(FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT.)

What an influence the Stage has in the world of fashion; if we trace the career of a fashion, how often we find its birth in the theatre; for the popular form of headgear rumoured for this winter we have to thank (xt least some will) Miss Edoa May; for a modified form of bonnet worn by this popular young actress is the new shape for the season. Itiscalled the "Edna May" and mostly shown in black velvet, with numerous black and white plumes; it is quite off the face in front and fits tightly over the hair at the back, finished with black chiffon strings; but' to Ye Ladyes Faire I give a ivory of caution, if you are not especially favoured by nature wit baby face and pretty soft hair, don say, invest in an **Edna May there are so many other pretty shapes to be worn; quite the newest picture hat from Paris is somewhat of a Trelawney with " high crown, trimmed low with many plumes, and worn at decided angle, which makes 'a considerable difference to the exactness with which the Trelawney has to be put on, A curious and marked feature in this autumn's millinery, is the trimming of velvet and felt hats' with tulle, also fur toques, a fashion which Dame Fashion decrees will last right through the winter; if one is allowed to say 50, a more unsuitable material for the changeable English climate you could not find than tulle, I saw a charming little sable toque the other day, its only trim.

ing being one of the new tulle f thers; at a distance one can hardly distinguish them from real ostrich, so beautifully are they made; another cunning imitation takes the form of silk aigrettes these no doubt have been brought in, as so many people have set their faces against wearing the real aigrette. Toques remain rather large and decidedly broad, and they mostly boast of fairly high crowns. A dainty model of this type was made with a pale blue velvet crown with the tiniest brim of sable, split the front, where its only trimming was a large rosette of pale blue shaded velvet. Rosettes for the winter have curiously pointed centres, the material being gathered four or five times and drawn up very tight and allowed to stand out in a point from the middle of the rosette; these are very much in favour, and some of the simple hats are trimmed entirely with these in shaded colours. Violets are again very mauch to the front, but of a much larger make than those used last year, and not tied up in the tight market bunch. This winter's violets are not made after Nature's pattern, but nevertheless are very effective for millinery. Last year's combination of purple and pale blue is still much favoured, anda very pretty combination it is too, orange and grey are again wor, especially in millinery. The shops are full of dainty oddments for smartening ourselves up, a pretty and useful idea is a plain shaded velvet collar, with a little sequin or bead trimming, which you can put over any collar. Another neck dainty is a collar of coarse lace with bands of black velvet, this is worn over a bright-coloured collar, cuffs are made to match these collars.

Velvet sailor knot ties are just in, they are tied with ribbon velvet about an inch and-a-half in width. Isew a most attractive little front made from a mauve ban-donna handkerchief in Regent Street, and T heard on very good authority they were only just iv. I will try to describe as nearly as possible how it was made as it would be a useful accessory for anyone to have; the two opposite corners were cut off about two inches from the point, these were put on one in the middle of the neck, the other at the middle of the waist line with the points toward each other, at the neck downwards, at the waist upwards, then cut the handkerchief in half which will leave almost a three-cornered piece, this you put on down the side tinder the arms, round the arm hole on the shoulder a little way along the neck, and then you take the ends and tie them into & knot and fasten with a paste buckle, the collar is covered with any small, fragment you can spare from the armhole, there is sufficient in one handkerchief to make a remarkably unique front. Furs, at all times delightful and dear to the heart of woman, are to have a great innings this winter, grey and white fox sets the shop windows are crammed with, which although very pretty, will become tov common and too easily imitated to be worn amongst. the dressed. The neck fur is finished with a fox head, and another reposes on the muff, and a big fut brush hangs down on the right side of the muff; in white they look charming, but in smutty London, how long would they remain' so? I must just mention " few things in the magnificent toilettes worn by Mra, Langtry and the beautiful Miss Lily Hanbury. 'The latter looks superb in the first act in an all-black ening dress, the body and skirt of which was entirely' covered with sequins, the train was of frills of chiffon, long and' narrow. The only striking feature in Mrs, Langtry's first dress was a trail of white roses which hung from her left. shoulder, right down on her train, it gives a very pretty effect and one easily put on to freshen up an old gown. Mrs, Lantry wears nothing but white dresses, people wonder if it is because she has become a blushing bride.

6th October.

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

Your account