The Archive · 1901

DIARY OF A-JOURN SHANSI

The following notes, written by one of the party of missionaries who lately preceded from Peking to Taiyuanfa, have been courteously priced at our disposal.

June 2tst.—L ft Chtiyebfu and the tary service for the work in the interior It wis a strange feeling saying good-bye, as the future seems so uncertain and things are so unsettled, Went on to Hsupeitzutu where Drs. Edwards and Smith are staying. On the 22ud our purty, consisting of only Drs, Elwards and Sucth, Major Pereia and my-elf, with our servants ami som: Christivns returning t+ Shansi and Shensi, left by the early train, The C1. M. and Dr. Atwood bad gime ahead to Pantingfu som days onlier. We found that the deputy appointed to escort us had taken tickets and made all arrangements fur our convenience. We arrived at Paoting about We found carts and attendants waiting to take us and our luggage to the kong kuan prepued ferus. Te was in tie German quart the city, west sabarh, and was nicely done ith awnings ard dvesrated with flowers, stayed here till Wednesday mornit was necessary to procure mules and for the inland journey. We heard alan ig rumours from Taiyuan, butchd not give mit ich credit to them. In nny case we Aecided to pricced- and find out a'l the fac's as we advanced. Che officials did I they could to honour us and supply our needs. On the 26th, went by train to 1 distance of sine 130i, The cult for Chinese trains, but the railway hus done away with the slow progress through the sand drifts and we reached the city in a few hours, The Proviveinl Judge, she travelled to Shanghai on the sume steamer last yew with us, was on the train. Me was much honoured by the French and travelled in state. At the station we found that the French had commandeered all the carts sent for us by the Chinese officials, This caused some delay, but we soon were aile get on to the College where the local ati ul prepared quarters fur vs. We ere well received. The French have a strong post here.

On the 27th. reached 1 furthest. post.afthe French found that General Baillond was much annoyed that we had come to Paoting without king for his sanction and protection, and he had telegraphed the Post Commandant notto help us in any way. The Major santa declaration for us fo sign, showing that we proceeded at our own risk, etc. We saw no reason for not signing the missive, and we further sent a united letter to the General explaining that we were proceeding at the invitation of the Chinese Government and in the capacity of civilians; that our passports were issued by our Ministers; that we were escorted by Chinese, so we did not think it necessity to report ourselves in Paotingfu. The Chinese received us well.

Op the 28th, reached Chengtingfu; we were housed in a Buddhist temple. a fine building, and containing an 80-foot statue of Buddha, The buildings were evidently built by fnperial request and public funds, but ike so many others are now badly ruined and in need of repairs.

Adjoining the temple is the fine and large catholic cathedral, It was intact During the Boxer troubles list year the magistrates would not allow the Box ts to enter that city, and the locals were under the impression that the Catholics were well armed, and did ut attack the Cathedrd, The French troops were quartered in the city for eight months, The Catholic Bishop received and protected the Griffiths and Mr, Brown of the C. I, M. last year. If anyone still believes that the Citholies are so self-sacrificing, he ought to pay a visit to such places as Chengtingfu.

On the 29 h, reached Huailuhsien. The official had evidently made up his mind not to put hiraself about on our account, and so we found that little or no. prepara tion had been made. As he was the man in charge when the Greens were: lriven out, we declined to accept his card, or food, or visit him. The wei yuan was much concerned on account of the difficulty, and feared it would involve him, After a time other rooms were found. Then the official sent the gentry of the plice to apologise. After that we accepted his fod and also saw him. Phe French occupied the place for some time, but do nut seem to have left a gued impres: sion, Hunilu is u-ually a very busy centre, but is now deserted, all the principal places of business being closed.

The 30th being Sunday we were glad to stay, The C.1, M. were able to have a service in their own house, which the ima-<istrate was anxious to sve them occupy, ow, of course, were able to attend, as most of the Christians live at some distance from the city.

Lat July.—O s leaving Huailu the officials and the yentry were all in attendance ty make tp for past discourtesy. We went on to Weishui, only 401i, We could not proceed further us the river suddenly rose, A freshet came down so suddenly that some donkeys that wore crossing the stxeon had to stay stranded in the middle unable to return, or to cross to the other side. It was. good example of the danger of these mountain streams in their swift swellings.

2nd July.—At seven a.m. started for the river still said to be impassable, After sending the soldiers to ford and examine the depths we all decided to attempt crossing. This was accomplished after some delay but without any mishap. We had tocrossthesame river thee' times before reached Chinghsinghsien, We were well received by the official, who had splendid quarters prepared for' us in the College. After lunch we started for the most interesting part of the journey—the pass through the famous Kukwin passage, The preparations made o_ resist the foreign troops were very manifest. There were pits along the road and strongly built barricades on the crests of the ridges, mines were sunk and stone sangars built: On the advance of the Germans the position that naturally would be strony mud easily made impregnable by any European troops was speedily evacuated, There remain the deserted cannon and other debris to mark the attempt that was futile. We stayed the night at Huishihp'y, On the 3rd we lunched at Paiching and were royally entertained by the officials. We then proceeded to Pingtingchou where the whole city tarned out to honour our arrival. The chief magistrate here was friendly to the Saunders party last year when they were in straits, and his friend-lines was very much' manifest again. There were no unwilling compliments, but genuine friendship. He had done all he could for his own superiors and we felt no doubt that he was not making show to order but. seeking to manifest his wish to. repair the wrongs for which he profusely apologised again and again. He meutioned an interesting conversation he had with the Empress Dowager when she was passing through Hsukousion last year and where he was magistrate ab the time. He tried to

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