Wo arrived in this famous city on Monday, JUL Decemver, just were weeks alter leaving ouanghai, we Queen city the Mast. dure yuvuimy tuan ever, viewed from the vast uountam regions' of tae north, with their wonderlauu of terraced hui-sides, ravines and mountain torrents, caverns and Wayside inns, primitive with the simple customs and anoint lore of people ludden away among their rocks, and mines, and cultivated mountain sides, like their ancestors of hundreds of years before them, knowing little and carimg less about the great world beyond. It has been such a pleasant journey, replete with new experiences and crowned with the successful termination of our mission. As esta of the Chinese Government, we ave been forwarded from post to post, under the most auspicious circumstances our advance seeming almost like a triumphal procession. Mandarins and offi cials have vied with each other in extending to us every courtesy and attention, and our daily "feasts" have been sent by them distances of 50 li, back and forth, between principal stopping places, route. Official chairs carried by eight men each, with mounted police, Imperial soldiers, and the attendants' litters, baggage, ete., making quite an imposing spectacle along the highway. The Governor of Shansi passed us at the small village of Huaiship'u, with his numerous retinue, hastening to join the Empress Dowager at Ch'engtingfu. As we entered our ily-decorated rooms at the inns with their braziers of glowing corns. and evpof fragrant tea, we wore usually told that the Governor had either ocennied. or wa-about to. occupy, the "ame "best roams." Thus the same decoration and good cher were made to welcome the newcomer. an? "speed the parting guest." Tt was like a new world above the clouds! One semed to have been lifted from the civilisation of the plains below and placed on a gr-at thoroughfare over the mountain tops, in the cloud land. Qur sensations were' as novel as delightful, and it seemed but 2 step from the four "Heavenly Gates" of the mountain-passes to the "beautiful gates ajar" behind the vault of blue, hiding them from mortal view.
Our journey properly began in Paotingfu. Our guide, Chien Pao-chen, in rank "Assistant to a Fu," was chosen on account of the valuable services he had rendered Shansi missionaries during the outbreak, for which he had been promoted, and has since been acting as Deputy to the progressive Shen Tun-ho, by Imperial decree chosen Managing Director of the Foreign Bureau ju Taiyuanfu; his primary duty being to act as plaintiff on be-haff of the five Protestant Missions recently at work in Shansi. The following letter was delivered us by his Assistant Prefect, Ch'ien, and translated into English through the kindness of Rer. J.
"Letter from Shen Taotai of the Shansi Bureau of Foreign Affairs to Mr. Wood-berrs.—The suffering wrought by the Boxers in Shansi last summer is something unknown in all the past. Since the Christian and Missionary Alliance suffered injury because no-one has arrived to adjust matters, each case has been delayed to the Present, and it is earnestly desired that they may be settled. As to the Christians who were murdered, and the property des. troyed, I have already, after conference with Dr. Edwards, of an independent Mis. sion, dispatched the Christian, Kao Tasing, to Tat'ungfu prefecture, the district of Yanekouhsien, and, also, outside the Great Wall, to settle these cases with the local magistrates. Yet the destruction of the chapels and massacre of the foreign Pastors were matters he did not dare to settle on his own responsibility. I learned from Mr. Orr-Owing's telegram that sour honoured self would come to Shansi to settle these matters for the Society, and was urged by him to send a deputy' to Pao. ting-fu to escort and protect. you into Shansi province. I send the special deputy Ch'ien Pao-chen, assistant prefect, to meet and escort you. He, last year, at Pringyanefu, save the lives of the' me land missionaries, and this spring Tap. pointed to settle cases of Missions, ete., which he has dono very peace-fulls, The pastors of your (Protestant) Church have very intimate relations with him, and abound in praise of ' 7 well be called "Chtien' the Secretary.' When you your good equipage) come to Shansi, he will protect you. Moreover, have informed the local officials along the route, #0 that you are assured of a peaceful and prosperous journey throurhout. Ta the expectation of soon meeting you in person, I am extendingly happy. And with those explanations, I" respect. fully wish vou, as travellers, prosperity. Shen Tun-ho. 2 This kind letter is the key to the sitnaation, and has been carried out faithfully, both as to letter and spirit. The son of a Chékiane Taotai had specially " ed the train (which is not yet open to the public) to convey him to Chengtingfu. A kind Providence favoured us also, and the same train bore us 300 li farther on our journey. The long car was divided into two large apartments; the young oficial taking possession of one, and we the other: there was no door between, but an oj ing to admit entrance. A' hear: tiful rite in the starlight (how ther shone!) with the a'r crisp, and snaw felling: a lon~, freshing sleep. and darbroak found us on ovr destination. Mr. \v. snout the evening disposing of Gospels. etc.. and was de-Vehted vith the interest shown. Our sedan chairs were on the train with us, and we were borne in state to the yamen, breakfastless, but inspired with the thought of our dignity. which was more than meat (2). Our first "feast" did not welcome ws until the mandarin's call was over. and he. with Oriental politeness bowed himself out, through portico after portico. Dinner over, we journeyed with all speed to Chaolingp'u, through pretty crossing the magnificent highway being prepared for the Empress Dowager and her returning Court. We desired to reach Huailu, but darkness came on, and we spent our first night alone in a wayside inn. I draw the curtain. It was very cold! No preparation had been made, as this was not an appointed place. Early') on Sunday, we proceeded to Huailu, the mountains looming up on the hanson, and the farmers' compounds, like little detached villas dotting the plain. They were usually set with trees desert. and had the appearance of oases in the About ten o'clock we arrived in Huailu, and were soon entertaining (?) the Chihsien Hung Tai, after the most approved fashion. He was one of the most genial hosts we met on the way. We enquired about many topics, gradually leading the way to the subject uppermost in our mind.
Was there a chapel in Huailu, and might we, please, gather the native Christians for an afternoon service?" Consent was obtained with alacrity, and Hung T'ai instantly dispatched an' official to make ready. We found the natives delighted at our coming, their pastor being absent temporarily. The next day we returned the Chihsien's call, and were received in a permitted to visit his mother (wife he had none). Tea followed. Gifts were exchange ed; aNew Testament accepted with evident pleasure. Then farewells; a score of bowl Heian Chinese lanterns, beautiful in zo and workmanship, lined the path, held in as many willing hands. We were es-carted to the prison, whither our interest led, by our kind host and his retainers and massive bolts were withdrawn for our inspection within. Highwaymen -lared at us through the bars; murderers pined in their chains. We asked and received permission to speak a few words, and leave Gospels: and returned with warm feelings of regard for the Chihsien of Huailu. On Monday morning, we began ascending those hills where the Green party rested in the temple cave. and began their weary wanderings. As the first foreign lady to repass these localities, vivid scenes Tosa before me; but the terror had passed. Peaceful villages nestled among the hills, and miles of donkeys laden with coal and iron threaded their wav "mong the rocks, Police stations, at intervals of 50 li, lined the thoroughfare, and waved their protecting banners in full view: men charged with the safety of tra~~'lers at the peril of their own lives, and bribes would instantly forfeit th tion, passed us on in peace. loess country through which had a "charm all its Cliffs and caves, frozen own. streams and waterfalls suspended over rocky heights; mountain torrents, like ribbons of ice, spanning the valleys; snow-topped peaks, and smiling skies, combined to make a landscape picturesque with natural beauty. One could imagine almost any sculptured effect—castles, cathedrals, towers; whole mountain sides terraced with has-reliefs such as only the sculptor Time can chisel on the ancient loess moun.
Palestine views wore constantly sted, and the scenes in Bible store being enacted before our eyes. On ist mas Day, as we aporonched Ping-ting chou, the village of Bethlehem, the manger, the shepherds, the inn, were real never before. Tt would not have surprised us to have heard the angel hosts Encing as in the long ago, "Peace on earth, good will to men."
We had passed Chinshinghsien and Piching on the two previous evenings with every token of kindness. Official servants in bright silks swept down the toad several li on ponies with crimson cards of welcome. The Mandarin in the former place greeted us with outstretched
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.