The Archive · 1904

Some Hints to Travellers

By aN Occasionat CORRESPONDENT.

I have always heard that among places of amusement in Chi 0 the hi stock yards are the ones not to miss. On iny way there in one of the fastest and most luxurious trains Ihave ever travelled in, I made inquiries about the kind of amusement offered at the stock yards and was informed that one could diggest killing of pigs and catti world and that a comfortable erected for visitors to see it done. I did not go to the stock yards. I sought amusement at the and furthest removed from them, but did not find one single thing to tempt me to forget that I was on the spot where the biggest killing in the world, was going on day by day. I remained forty-eight hours in the city and loft before I had recovered from my amarament that a city of such magnitude and with such b lidings, stroots, and parks! can have been created in the short period of fifty years. I asked myself over and over again: How will Shanghai look fifty years after the country behind it has been opened up and the people made to feel they have the right to live and enjoy life as much as anyone else, high or low, and that these rights will be upheld and respected? Why, the answer of course is that Shanghai will be the other pivot, London being the original one, round which our giddy world will spin,' There is not a place in the world with anything like the situation Shanghai has, the Yangtze and the whole of China at its back, Japan, Corea, Formosa, and the Philippines in front, only a couple of days away. Our city fathers should remember what are the future requirements of the present settlement destined as it is to be the centre of " city that will on one side reach to Woosung and beyond, taking up both sides of the river.

From Chicago, where I motored a good deal, but without liking it, mach preferring the stroot cars, I took the night express to Rochester which, as far the residenti I part goes, is the finest town Ihave seen anywhere. It is like an immense and beautiful park with fine broad avenues running through it in every direction, while here and there half-hidden among the trees and foliage nestled villus in great variety of style and beauty, and nowhere a sign of a fence, nor even a hedge to mark the boundaries between the properties. I inquired what protection they had against burglars and they replied that! such people never came to Rochester, which I hope is true. In the evening I was taken seven or eight miles out of town to the shores of Lake Ontario, where at a large establishment of the same name we enjoyed a fine dinner and afterwards very exciting ride in order to catch the train, and I more firmly than ever made up my mind that motoring is foolish, unless people cannot get enough excitement in xny other way and even then. But for those who require it, motoring offers chances that can only compare with those offered by ballooning. All one has to do is to start out on a dark night on @ narrow road, increase the speed to thirty miles an hour, extinguish the lamps and keeping the up, trust to Providence. It is thrilling! I was able to get on board my train just as it was moving out of the station and next morning I was in New York.

Before I finish with railways I must relate for the benefit of innocents such as myself a little incident which happened tome. It was about eight o'clock in the morning when I went into the next car bat one to get my breakfast; the dining-car looked fresh and inviting so 1 sat down near a window and was soon discussing some very good coffee, ham, and Graham when the train stopped and a few minutes after a train passed, not an unusual occurrence and to me of little moment until between two bites I noticed my own green Japanese kimono! just as I had flung it half-so-hour before into my sleeper. I called the waiter and asked where the train was off to. He replied to St. Louis! And he added that the train I was in was going to Chicago. It did not take moe long to catch that train and rescue my kimono und other belongings; thanks to the flaring green of my Japanese garb. Moral: don't leave your car unless it is in motion: or if youd make sure your train will not be cut up and its divisions sent in all directions during your absence.

Another amusing little incident in connection with dining cars is as follows: Having no small change I went into the dining car to ask the waiter to change a $20 bill for me, also to make of places at dinner for my party. I thought it an excellent opportunity for a whisky and soda so had one. When I wished to pay, the waiter said: "Better wait and pay after dinner;" but I wanted the 0 insisted on paying, at which the waiter remarked: "Oh! very well, I suppose you do not want your folks to know!"

When [commenced these letters I had hazy idea that some of my experiences might prove useful to other innocents going abroad by way of the Huangpu, and the fact that I have just had to buy a new trunk has stirred up that " wish to be useful" corner; therefore when you buy trunks don't buy them of steel. I bought two in the Nanking Road just before I started and was immensely pleased with my purchase, so light, so solid, so burglar proof, etc., etc., wood and leather were not in it, this is the age of steel, and so forth; but I was s what disgusted to find that the coolie in bringing the trunks along had run against something and the big trunk had a most elegant bulge on one side. However there was no time to trouble about it as the Siberia would certainly not wait for me to discuss the matter with the coolie, 80 I proceeded to pack as fast as I was able, and it was with immense satisfaction that I set on the trunk and heard the lock snap into place. This was no sooner done than I saw a small protruding from the T unlocked the tunk and stuffed the offending habili ment in and again heaved a sigh of satisfaction when I heard the lock snap into place. When next I beheld my property, there was something protruding from ti other side! The next time I made a quaintance with my new steel trunks was on the wharf at San Francisco; they then presented the appearance of having been round the baggage-room fighting all the other tranks in succession, and looked as disreputable as a chopped dollar. One had burst open and deposited my belongings around about. The baggage master explained that wasa little way steel trunks had, and this proved true, for whenever I had an interview with my trunks I found them a wee bit open, shedding small articles by the way; and this notwithstanding that they were boun 1 about with stout cords. On reaching London I still retained my great coat and the heavier articles, 80 proceeded to obtain a new outfit, not of steel but leather, I paid the porter two gs und sixpence to relieve me of the shells of the Nanking Road, and a tailor twenty shillings to free my clothes of the blue Incquer the inside of the trunk had shed during the voyage.

While in New York I stayed at the Waldorf-Astoria, supposed to be one of the best hotels there, and it was without a doubt very comfortable and interesting.

worth while to spend a few hours looking over the hotel for which guides are furnished on demand. Each flat has its sopxrate service with a clerk night and day to see that orders are carried out, telephones in all the rooms, ete.; only one mast find out how to uso all these conveniences. For instance I rang the bell for some tea, n gold-laced gentleman appoared who told me I should have rung twice This I proceeded to do anda small button appeared who told me in a good-natured kind of way, and as if pitying my ignorance, that he would find me thy gentleman who would supply my wants. A gentleman did appear who instructed me how to get at him again without the help of the middle man.

I suppose everybody, except ignor ut mo, has heard of Coney Island? I had not and was devoured with a desire to investigate s0 I boarded the overhead electric and in little more than an hour I found myself deposited at the entrance toa fairy palace, where every kind of amusement was offered at very reasonable prices. It seemed to me that it offered much more than the Pike at the World's Fair. Some to whom I spoke later smiled at my appreciation of Coney Island, and I suppose it is intended for the people, but all [can say is that the people know how to have a very good time of it. None of them seemed to be the least bit bored and all whom saw there were nice and well-behaved. Returning on the cara it was quite pathetic to soe how happily tired they all seemed to be from their Sunday out. One young pair had fallen asleep leaning on one another, and they slept such a peaceful, happy sleep that the memory will remain with mo long after I shall have forgotten the other beautiful things I saw in New York.

To get on board the Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosso took almost an hour and when I got there the ship was simply crammed with passengers and friends seeing them off. I met several passengers from the East all of whom had been asked to pay extra, though they had through tickets, for the privilege of travelling by this fast steamer. I know of two who refused to pay extra and

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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