In the result, he has written one of the good English books about, ie—u sort of serio-comic lyric at makes an admirable. suppleent to the writings of Meredith. and Professor Saintsbury on the me theme. His rhapsodies on are 60 years old are more de-rightful than the flavour of the claret itself. He is dogmatic about che shape, texture, and colour of wine-glasses. He is grim as an Tne quisitor against those who would ut bitters into sherry.
He is a claret-lover first and foremost, and speaks with condescending patronage of champagne:
There are many who refuse to champagne the name of wine in the highest sense of the word, but there are few who are insensible its peculiar charm and attrac. fon. Compared with the qualities of Claret and Burgundy, those of Champagne may be des. cribed as superficial, " obvio evanescent. The carbonic acid gas, which is responsible for the sparkle, carries off with ita Proportion of the alcohol and many volatile particles, so that the sensations produced by the bouquet are at first more definite! and Jess enduring, while the stimulating effects of the alcohol are immediate. Champagne lacks the seriousness of the greatest wines, but its light-hearted, irresponsible gaiety is very precious to humanity.
When he arrives at brandy, however, his imagination glows again, and be concludes with a description jof a meal, even to read of which Teaves one with a swimming cense: tion in the head, With all his raptures he contrives to combine " great deal of interest jing information about the maki of wine and the grape-growing di tricts. If there is ever a chair of wine established at one of the universities, this will undoubtedly be used as a text-book. Meanwhile, most of us will-be content to admire Mr. Allen's fastidiousness without imitating. it. Only those who are ared to devote their lives and fortunes: to wine-drinking can afford News."
become his diseiples.—"Daily
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.