The Archive · 1921

Harking Back Two Centuries

COMING FASHIONS

In dress this spring there is much te interest and delight those who appreciate art as well as fashion. In the summer women will Jock like the portraits of their _predecessors of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, says the fashion correspondent of the. London "Times." Demure white frocks with soft fichus finished with little goffered frills, and big straw hats lined with some becoming colour, will recall the pictures of Laiwrence and Raeburn, Romney and Hoppner.

Tha chief difference will be in the figure, which is straight and not rounded as in those days. In the simplicity of these white gowns lies their charm; they will be made of fine georgette or ninon, organdie or voile; and besides their goffered frills they will be trimmed with rows of minute tucks. The sleaves will be short, sometimes almost nothing, so that there may be anxiety about gloy Some of the hats are being made of burnished lisere straw with only a narrow velvet ribbon tied in a bow behind witt long floating ends. A tiny bunch of flowers or fruit may be tucked away under the brim, but a plain hat with a halo lining of silk will be generally preferred to more elaboration, _But if the white gown is simplicity itself, the little wrap to accompany if will make up for lack of colour. Wraps will be made either like small crossover capes or tiny sac coats, and will be in the brightest colours. Some are in lettuce or flageolet green, others in coral, geranium, Chinese blue, or canary colour; all are designed in taffetas. For trimming they will have little stiff box-pleated ruches edging them all round, and sometimes a kind of broderie an-

@hildren's garments lose no glaise design worked over them. The crossover capes will have Tong spoon-shaped ends, which will hang from about the line of the waist almost to the hem of the gown.

Paistey Rocks aNp TriIvauNne.

Sleeves just now are interesting. The curtailed sleeve which comes only a little below the shoulder ix confined to frocks; the sleeve of the coat and skirt is long and so wide at the base that it shows more than a peep of the lining, which will be in some strong contrast, so that a sober blue serge or gabardine may have a brilliant emerald green or tangerine lining as the case may be. The. Paisley lining is a favourite, and more will be heard about it as the season advances. There will be entire frocks of Paisley in silk, cashmere, and foulard; they will be piped and trimmed with white or. plain colours, preferably the more subdued tints. Thick, rich crepe de Chine will be used for the more elaborate coat and skirt, lavishly embroidered in soutache and floss silk, and tasselled after the current fashion. These coats. are built on indefinite lines of the sac shape, with little more than slits for sleeves. In beige, blue, nigger, or in pale malachite green embroideries they will be much sought after. Embroidered coats and skirts are now curiously trimmed with flat oval lacquered beads, or discs, red on blue or black' on: red. "Beads, indeed, are to be seen on every garment, and the little afternoon frocks of voile or georgette have not only girdle of beads but chains of wooden beads dyed the same colour as the gown and hanging all round the skirt at haphazard.

The Medici collar, which is likely to be brought much into use this year, should always be worn with caution. It suits a long neck but not a short on its contrast is the roll collar, which is carried right down the front of the coat and is usually piped with another colour.

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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