The Paris Season Opens: Lingerie with Cut and Individuality: Funny Hats a New Note By Sytrestee Donau Paris. the chemise-niailot, or shirt-draw-Each ter Paris takes on. an ey cit well acted, when for the sum of 2/6 specially festive air, when all the mould the more finely, fine sil Jraey, that grand ladies return to town for the Smartest functions of the season.
Many have lingered long at Biarritz, for other favoured spots away from Paris, bat all are now back, and the stage is set for the annual Panorama of elegance. It reminds one of @ theatre on a gala night when royalty. is expected, to see hhow the important social events are held up pending the arrival in Paris lof the last of the elegantes.
Meanwhile the public, like an impatient audience, figuratively begins to whistle and stamp their feet in chorus, The newspapers frankly state that the Duchess So-and-So and Madame So-and-So are remaining away Jonger than the protocol of Parisian politeness prescribes and everything is done to Jget them to the capital the soonest possible so that social happenings may begin to unroll, Meanwhile, too, the setting is arranged elaborately. "Nowhere quite so. manifestly does this strike you as in the dressmaking salons, ig|for the returning Indies first of all run to order their wardrobes for winter, not only those for wear in and around Paris, but for Cannes and Nice, for Venice, for all the long chain of smiling' white towns that skit the French and Italian And what are the new features of this Parisian Mode, that is a verity able barometer" indicating the climate, taste and pocket-book of each moment? 'As usual, the faultless French taste revels in a thotsand little details; those indescribble, often nameless "'what-nots'" that' carry to all the corners of the iglcbe the national fashion fame of France. Infinitely worked details Kaye always been a characteristic lof the Paris frock, so that it ix not only recently that these have been an important factor in style change, Bat these "become" inerensingly portant, so important in fact that if you compare sketches of this Son's and those from the s-son before last, you will only differen-Hiate between them by studying the Lingerie To begin with lingerie, glifchets, what is called ' vetements Gintimate garments) have iven more than the usual creative attention this season. Crepe de chine sets have given place to Never Come Back," a new Lon dale play; "For Services Rendere by Somerset, Maugham: "Once a. Husband" with Owen "Nares, Fay Gompton, and Cyril" Maude; and
them. irade' at" Verdun" are-some' of The theatre really is looking up, managers are beginning to realise that there are things the cinema cannot do,—it cannot get the sonal touch, and it has to have plenty of movement and variety, oF Its chief asset is lost. The theatres must go. in for intelligent plays, cleverly acted and well thought-out, if managers concentrate on this, the theatre wil attract its own public, and. the cinema will attract di ferent. one. This -was what happened in the days before the slump, fand_it merely needs a little ad-Jjusting for the same thing happen again. The talkies cannot take the place of the theatre, producing a surer outline; corsets yield place to corselets of unprecs dented refinement and chic. Made in satin, these should match the colours of the dress, or at least harmonise and correcting. the lines bust, while at the same time
tered, these become real collabora ality ural tors.' with the" master dress designers, The manufacturers all say these jcorselets can not, be reproduced abroad. An American woman Ws purchasing several, admittedly fe a New York manufacturer, and the manager of the shop told her. would rather give her money back because he was sure, after many copies he had seen of them as made in other countries, that she would not be satisfied with the result of her experiment and their reproduetion would not reflect credit on the original creators, These garments are often made to measure, and especially made to Lo worn with a certain gown or gowns of a similar type, The models are often given some individual touch before delivery even when stock numbers are purchased, Millinery Funny hats are a new note: all manner of strange creations that sre suggestive, of something that mentally fell from high heaven fand landed without the wearer's knowledge on the extreme rear or side of her head. Sometimes these queer hats that only' use square inches of material ai more than a bow or draped pi fabric, Unexpected gloves are another fresh feature," Th the' widest imaginable range of fabrics from tulle to velvet, and sometimes far, Other Details Very enveloping short, pelerines such as. were' Worn by. the great grandmothers "seen in." family Albums, protect delicate shoulders, and fiir" cravats, knotted in all manner of mischievous. having an enormous vogue. These are in many" different. furs, but chiefly of course in. the flat.'ones that can best be manipulated into bows and other graceful fastenings. Astrakhan, ermine, shaved lamb fand rabbit, caracc! ire among these, and breitschwantz, These pelerines replace collars, one one such scart can. be worn With "various coats, ie then all fur-trimmed with the same piece fof fur; also. they maybe. worn without fur on days when you pr to leave the scarf at home." This fur scart selves many' problems. If you have several in different furs you can give one cent the. so number of personalities and multiply its uses, 'New handbags are in rough Iné~ quer, telts "in. coloured loathe) fand:'new shoes are made newer' Jappetrance by clever and' strange cut-out work.
Then there, are collars of velvet, worked ina bee's nest around the neck, with large loops escaping into height, framing the head as the petals of a giant dahlia..."
Such are the fanciful and: exuisite details on which the novelty of the new styles is founded Cc Cc Ss Ss Gall arid See our Stocks at
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.