A Shanghailander who has recently come back from Japan noticed in these columns last week a reference to Mr. Cornelis J. van Heyst's tour there and has been good enough 10 give further details of Mr.
Heys's Japanese engagements, Tokyo Mr. van Heyst gave a recital, played before the microphone, and gave a series of lectures and a Practical course of bassoon playing the Tokyo Imperial Academy of Music at the invitation of Dr. Kazu Norisugi, the Director of the Academy. The musical critic who heard Mr. van Heyst's recital at the concert hall of the Imperial Academy declared that. the Shanghai player had captivated the audience with his flawless tone, hhis stupendous and yet easy technique, and, especially, his musicianly Inter predations. The wide range of sound colours he drew from his instrument, the fine dynamical shadings between a delicate pianissimo and an exuber. ant fortissimo, and his skilful hand-Jing of intricate passages brought him the admiration of his listeners, the majority of which were musicians and music students, cessories which played so important 1 part in the toilette of the Edwardian grande dame, The fan, for instance, is staging a come-back. Debutantes are choosing curled feather fans, mounted on. mother-of-pearl, in white or delicate pastel shades," or sequin fans, to match their wide, sequin-embroidered skirts, in delicate moonstone tints, For the older woman, there are Eraceful, uncurled ostrich' feather fans in the rich autumnal colourings of wine, sapphire, blue and smoky ink, Gilt Chairs in Demand Catering experts are searching London for gilt chairs. They, also, are working and, at the moment, worry> ing' over the Coronation festivities. Thousands of these little chairs will wanted to line the windows and terraces of buildings along the (Coronation route next May and each ball hostess will require several hundred to provide sitting-out room accommodation for guests. But alas, having searched for thousands, the Jeaterers have found only a few extra gilt, chairs, The home of the gilt ' chair industry is not in this country but in France, It seems that we cannot make them light enough, which is unfortunate for they are becoming more and more popular, with the modern hostess. Of the four varie~ ties in. constant demand to-day, the Louis-Seize chair and armchair, with dainty upholstered seats, are the most popular. Then, there are the square-backed bamboo chairs with one seat and the. Gothic-patterned type. The task of repairing these precious pieces of furniture keeps. a umber of men employed all" the year round, for the chairs are ex: wamely delicate and there are three for four casualties at every. ball The Tunic of To-day 'To some dress fashions we ling tenaciously. "'Tunies were with Us Inst season and we are to have them again, "Phe reason no doubt is Ghat they can be beautiful, contortable and are always useful. "A tunic may 100k magnificent' or quietly becoming. [Closed at the throat, or open, it nov fit the gute above. the waist and falls to a very wide ud stiff hemline over a tong, slim, slit skirt This general description migM€ very well convey an impression of "the tonic of Persian design which Marlene Dietrich, the firn star, has chosen for herself from a Paris collection, dane blue and gold and the sleeves have the same long, tight line as the bodice. The decoltete, in this model, is square and widely open behind.
'Another Paris purchase of Miss Dietrich is a black' satin coat for the evening. Those in search of dress ideas might profitably note that it is, Jong and close fitting, with a very wide hem-line, marked by a deep band of red lacquer satin, The sleeves are pleated and wide. This design Would be a striking addition to any evening wardrobe.
IL ig possible to trace some similar influences through all the Autumn collections and the most noticeable Is the directoire, "Higher waists "go. with higher hats, Skirts are short, reaching from just below the knee to midscalf length. Most of them fare of pencil slimness, sometimes slit back or front and sometimes with a few. very well-pressed pleats. For afternoon wear, the tunic appears again. But for this purpose it is a tunic-coat of Anger-tip Length and tight, high waist, [Velvet all the Way Ifa frock or suit is not just trimmed, it Is made entirely of velvet. Paris is showing everything for morning, afternoon and evening trimmed in some way or another with this aliractive material, in such colours as brown, bottle-grech and deep purple, Any little jumper suit in matt blake can be enlivened with velvet. Let us imagine one made with Bishop sleeves and velvet Peter Pan collar fand belt, "The outside of the sleeves slashed from shoulder to wrist and strips of velvet in beetroot, yellow fand green, are inserted, Or, for an evening occasion, what could be more charming than a velvet and taffeta frock. "One model In a Paris display showed a cyclamen taffeta bodice with a straight velvet, ankle-length skirt, split fairly high up. Velvet appears on sleeves, bodices, buttons, cuffs or collars. One must wear velvet somehow—somewhere. A. suit of broadcloth has square velvet applications on the pockets of the jacket and a large velvet star covers the entire front of a black mousseline afternoon blouse.
Other dresses for dinner or cocktail time have full skirts with sashes—of velvet—or wide bands—also of velvet J—at the bottom of the skirt,
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.