to the importunate journalist in affirmation of the scientific fact that there is no "little monsoon" (diota bursat)—a deep-rooted popular belief which conveniently explains the premature announcements. Whether the Everest Expedition thas thus been unnecessarily alarmed cannot be judged, but the assumption is that its ' weather experts: would protect it against vulgar error. Mr, Hugh Ruttledge has not een an Indian Civilian for nothing.
Success in reaching the summit depends on the climbers established Camp Vi—say 27,400 feet—being able to have one or two days of snow-free rocks and calm weather.
The problem may be summed up in Dr. 8. N. Sen's words:
Himalayan expedition is not undertaken in the winter months, for obvious reasons. The perpetual snow-line Is about 15,000 feet above sea-level, and the glaciers descend to about 12,000 fect. The prevailing ow temperatures and the frequent westerly or northwesterly. blizzards associated with Snowfall make all human attempts on Himalayan peaks impossible, In April, May and June, owing to the effects of the rapid insolation of the great Indian plains extending cipitations the Himalayan ranges, in the absence of disturbfnces." The frequency of fogs and Tow clouds also decreases in these months, Mountaineers, therefore, Took forward to one of these brief spells of fine weather before the advent of the monsoon.
Reuter's report of the severity of the monsoon conditions seems to indicate that the Expedition cannot rely on the possibility of finding a spell of fine weather for the final assault, In 1024 when the nearest approach to success was made the monsoon did not arrive until the middle of June. In 1933 it broke earlier and was active at the end of May so that snowfall rendered the slabs near the summit unclimbable. No wonder the Tibetan gods are confident of their power to protect their mountain. Even when human foresight and determination have equipped the Expedition with the requisite physical fitness, climbing skill, and courage, the decision still rests with the weather—the vagaries of the monsoon and the whims of the special brand of weather which Everest preserves for itself in those last two thousand feet. The Rutledge Expedition may yet achieve its desires, but the information vouchsafed in the cables cannot be described as favourable for the reasons thus briefly stated.
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.