The Archive · 1940

A Maker of Carpets

Those who own hand-made carpets, rugs and chair-cover sets woven tinder the guidance of Mr. Pontremoli Wwill'in future. treasure them. more carefully than they have over done. For Mr, Pontremoll, who, has, spent many years helping' to develop the raft of carpet-making in England, thas had to shut his workshop close to Paddington Station, London. Here, twenty girls, highly trained in_the craft, would daily sit at work. They Would take from " three to twelve months to make a carpet.

Very often these beautiful foord coverings were worked to a cus femer's own design. The Duchess of Kent chose a pattern of flowers and arrows, with the G. and the M. Worked In; Lady Honor Channon ordered pictures of her town and her country houses to be woven into her carpet. In addition she asked that all her hobbies, such as musie, fying, yachting, and skating, should be introduced into the carpet's pattern.

"The Queen used to have chair covers "designed here, one with Windsor 'Castle worked' into its pat-torn, But the Queen is only one of many eyners of fine English homes who regrets the closing of Mr, Pon tremoll's workshop. His carpets represented this eouniry at many international exhibitions and. they were particularly prized by Americans, What We Wear... What They Wear Women in the United States, as in France, have introduced the military foud more definitely into their war time' fashions than have "English~ women. Perhaps this is because the Englishwoman connects the so-called we Coane The only one of the British women's "services" which is a real revival from the last war is the Women's Royal Naval Service. Com~ pletely disbanded at the end of the war, it was reformed only in Aprit this year, and is now fully recruited.

In the 1939 version there are, naturally, some adaptations to a world which has grown over 20 years older. But to the ten per cent or $0 of women who served last time and have rejoined now, it seems very much ike just getting back into the same uniform, The old familiar name "Wrens," nickname derived from the initials of the service, stil stands, and even has official recognition. For the titles of the three ratings are "Chief Wren," "Leading Wren," and "Wren."

Because it is the smallest of the! women's services, it can afford to select only the most highly trained fand eMicient of those who offer themselves, "Wrens" serve only ashore, and though there are now units in almost every port, ey cannot be Absorbed in the same numbers as women in the Army or the Air Force women's services, Recruits are accepted between the age of 18 and $0. A woman must be a British subject and both her parents must be British subjects before she will be considered. Those who are accepted enrol for a period of four years.

Navy Tradittons Many of the girls are members of families whose menfolle have a Navy tradition. The Director, Mrs. Laughton Mathews, is a daughter of a distinguished naval designer. She also served with the "Wrens" In the last war. A daughter of Mr. Winston Churchill, First Lord of the Admiral. fy, Mrs, Duncan. Sandys, is a-member. Mrs. Douslas-Bale, a daughter of "Admiral Sir Perey' Douglas, is working at Headquarters.

"Wrens" are of two categories: immobile—those who live at home near} naval port or establishment and go their work daily; mobile—those Who are willing to serve anywhere the Admiralty requires. Girls may Join whichever they prefer. They are Intended to take over shore " jobs which would otherwise have to bel Gone by men and thus release men for active service.

The uniform Is navy serge, designed very much on the lines of the men's uniform, plain black shoes with Tow. heels and no toecap, black, feckings, white shirt, and black te.

ap for ratings is like that worn by the Sea Rangers. The badge on an officer's tricorne hat is exactly the same as for men except that the scroll is in pale blue instead of gold. It is dignified and severe.

Ratings receive a free issue of uniform and a kit upkeep allowance of 1/3' week. This is 0 cover any extras that many be needed to keep themselves spick and span—extra stockings, thes, tooth paste and little things of that kind.

Rates of pay for officers are from £210 to £275 a year. For specialized ratings 39/6 to 43/6 a week and for general ratings 30/- (0 40/- a week. "Wrens" belonging to the mobile units live in hostels and are usually very comfortably housed because their quarters are permanent and are Droperly fitted up.

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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