As summer advances it is interesting to note what has and what has not survived of the models which were offered at the beginning of the spring season. The tendency of the Parisienne is ever to simplify, to tone down excessively daring effects, retaining all the originality possible. At the beginning of the season the pan-ruered and full models were greatly discussed, but it is the narrower and more clinging style which has triumphed.
I venture to predict, even now, says a Paris writer, in spite of the widening of skirts—a widening which must be concealed, however, for a full skirt may. be gathered at the sides, but must be flat in appearance both back and front—that the model which will be offered in August for the coming autumn and winter will all be of the closer nar-Tower persuasion, This is easy to understand, for week by week materials are rising in price. Women who have not very large dress allowances soon perceive that the models which demand fullness and therefore quantities of material will be more expensive than those cut upon more moderate lines. At the beginning of this season we had twe distinct s to choose from—the style, and the
The latter has ousted the former. long: chemise"—gown.
Gowss or Two Mamenrats.
Yet there are many varieties even among the simple, plain styles. Thus I note " great taste for the gown that is formed of two materials, though not in the old way of a top of thin material and a lower part of thicker stuff. The new combination ut materials is now thus arranged. The back, sleeves, and sides, are of some plain material such as }taffetas, satin, or silk twill; the front. of the gown forms @ long panel somewhat like an elongated Waistcoat, of some contrasting materia] in colour. Thus a dark blue taffetas or twill will have its front panel of some daringly patterned foulard in blue and' white or blue and red or again in blue land jade. Oy the front panel will be entirely made of white or cream or lemon-coloured taffetas and em-raidered in some bright colours. With this type of gown a broad, soft sash may be worn, tied at the side with long loops and ends, The {neck arrangement of such dresses is usually most simple, being near-always cut in a wide oval, plainjy bound round with self-coloured material, I note that the very fusty neck arrangements of white muslin
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.