The Archive · 1871

Tientsin to Peking

Almost every one we met, tried to dissuade us from attempting to reach Peking, when the country was_so flooded, and the river so swollen.

"The cart roads are many feet under water" they would say, ''and the banks of the river are so. covered with water that the boatmen cannot track the current, always strong, will be greatly increased, and it will be impossible to make any headway." Said one friend, " you will be all one day getting round the point near the ruins of the French Cathe: a distance of three or four miles. All this seemed very discouraging. To go by Iand in carts, as is usual, was evidently impossible. The land communication was entirely cut off. It is only 80 miles and only two days journey in a cart. By water to Tuongchow (and in carts the last 13 miles) the trip might be made in ordinary times in from three to five days. A boat, for the accommodation of two persons, could usually be had for §6 or $8, but now the boatmen were asking $16 or $18. Through the Kindness of a friend speaking the dialect of this place, we secured three fine boats, for the moderate sum of $12 each. Having Bedaing &e., we started about ten o'clock ut. on board plenty of stores, fruits, ice,

Tuesday morning.

From the foreign settlement to the native city the river is full of junks, and along the narrow crooked channel, through which the boats "poled," the water, ran with fearful rapidity. The city is on the left bank, as. you as-ceria, and on the opposite side are large heaps of salt, covered with matting and at I first sight resembling rows of houses. They extend for several tiles along the river's bank. The Emperor stores it up here, allowing none but his agents to deal in it, and sells only at a handsome advance on the cost. Protected by revenue cutters ho has a safe little business, extending all over the Empire. One gets'a good view of the ruins of the Sisters' Orphanage, on the left bank as you ascend, just before reach ing the bridge of boats. The ruins of the Cathedral, still very imposing, appear in hight about the ume time, directly bead. The situation, at an angle, commanding a view of the river: for many miles, was well chosen, A little further on you pass the ruins of the French Consulate. To the East of the Cathedral, beneath a high mound, rest all the remains of the victims of the 21st of June, that could be collected. The bridge of boats is about, half way between these ruins, commanding a view of both. It is constantly thronged. The countrymen and pedlars hawk their vegetables and wares, the boatmen. glide past, the merchants and mandarins move on in their sedans, all careless and thoughtless of the dreadful deed so recently perpetrated. But those towers and blackened walls still stand untouched, thank God! pointing heavenward, and calling for vengeance, for the blood of those over whose graves they cast a dark shadow. Already, I fancy, the sons of Gaul are marshalling for battle and soon their tramp may be heard upon the bund, their steel bristle in our streets.

acting the iron point of their boat hook inst the boats and junks, our boatmen Pushed on with a speed truly marvellous water seems to have found ingress largely through the grand canal, which The carts are a delusion as far as riding enters the Peiho just above Tientsin. After ing this point, we found the water had on the aperrs stone-paved road is concerned. They do for the baggage, though so far subsided that the boatmen could our trunks were nearly knocked to pices by walk on the bank and tow the boats. the time we reached Pekin. A lady of The first half of the way the country is our party who had often heard such fiat, sparsely inhabited and exceedingly descriptions of this road, and the hardships devoid of interest; we scarcely saw any of those who attempted to pass over it in considerable village, and not one walled carts, declared she could say with the Queen town.

Towing or poling the boats produced no of Slieba, "The half had not been told motion, and we passed the time very plea What better proof that there is no longer santly, in conversation, reading, writing or a government in China, than this magni-strolling along the bank, sometimes divertficent road, leading to the capital, so uttering ourselves by helping the boatmen. We ly impassable? The Government has been were always glad when the time for our excused for inability to protect its subjects, meals returned, enjoying food—especially to put down the coolie and opium traffic, the abundance of rich ripe fruits—as we never did before. The weather was fine, pitucy, e. There may be some apology for not keeping in repair similar works, in the air cool and bracing, except in the distant parts of the Empire, but for not middle of the day, when it was too hot to repairing this road, and the pavement in walk in the sun comfortably. Our party the gates of the city of Peking, which are as consisted of nine all told, and every one ad, there can be no excuse. It. has long seemed to really enjoy the trip. In about been known that there was no circulation four days we reached Toong-chow, the head the extremities, but here is complete of navigation, and enanging carts and don-evidence that the vitals have ceased to per-keys, started for Peking the same afternoon. form their functions.

These Peking carts, as they are called, would be curiosity in Shanghai, and will hazard a description.

FoocHOW.

The shafts are large and strong, extend-It is so seldom that there is anything in back from the cart a couple of feet, fur-worth relating from here, that T seldom ishing a place for baggage. The shafts write; but by way of achango wehave had rest upon the axis and the cart upon the a few exciting scones in this neighbour-shafts, and the victim to be tortured is hood lately. The attention of the worthy seated upon the floor nailed across these Vice-Consul, (who has lately returned from shafts. There is always a sort of cushion, a sojourn in his native Iand,) was called to but no seat. You can sit cross legged like decide whether or not it was legal for a a Turk or extend your legs in front. The foreigner to chastise a chair coolie, when top of the cart, is about the size of a sedan-the latter applied some of those delightful chair. From the door a sort of curtain or epithets, characteristic of the Chinese, to ayuing extends over the horse's back the former, without provocation. The deci-shielding from the sun's rays passenger and. horse. "The two wheels Of this vehicle, sion was in favour of the Celestial, or more properly speaking the Queen, much to the though not large in diameter, are very chagrin of the abused foreigner. strong, resembling dray wheels. Each cart ext in the charge book, comes a case is drawn by one mule. They are quite by the Pilot Company versus Bush, to tolerable on a good road; but mounting know whether the latter could refuse one in Toong-chow you find yourself licensed pilot's services when offered, on bumped unmercifully a3 the cart is drawn the pilot ground. For this slight offence, over the rough pavement of the street to the defendant had to pay 20 taels and costa, compen with what awaits you on the the city gate. This, however, is nothing Amongst the latest improvements and additions to the Institutions of Foochow, Emperor's. highway—a stone-paved road is a Customs Club. The premises selected jing from Toong-chow to Peking, 13miles for this purpose are those known as the long. It is about 30 feet wide, paved with Foochow Hotel, but it' has not yet tran-large blocks or slabs of stone, which must spired who are the members that have have been brought from a great distance in been selected to form the Club. To the mountains. Some of these stones arg Bourhood of the building, after sunset went accidents occurring in the neigh-10 feet long by 3 or 4 wide, and must be very thick, as one seems to have especially, the dangerous gutterway in been disturbed—even the kerbstones at the front of the house has been filled, and it is side are for the most part in good repair. decided to have a handrail on each side of When first built, probably hundreds of the road, extending from the Club to the years ago, it was without doubt the greatest Custom House. A Yankee barkeeper has work of the kind in the world, and as fine been engaged, and is now on a month's road as you can well imagine. But now trial to enable him to become initiated it is, I have no hesitancy in saying, the into the ways of his Custom (ers). tcorst road in the aéorld. The traffic on the An accident occurred to German road is, even in its pitiable plight, very Barque Pallas on -Saturday last, whilst at. The abrasion of these thousands of beating out of the river, a pilot being on iron-bound wheels for so many years has board at the time. She took the ground completely worn away the ends of many of on the North Bank and remained there for the stones, letting the wheels fall into deep about six hours. The Fuh-lo was then gutters, to be brought up standing," the engaged to tow her off, which she suc-next moment, by contact with solid rock. ceeded in doing about 9 v.xt., and after "Standing" is not the word to be applied to the poor traveller at this moment, he is bringing the vessel safely to an auch suddenly and most violently jerked for-at Peak, the s.s. Woosing brought her to Pagoda, where she now lies, prepar-ward, backwards, or thrown in a way to ing to discharge her cargo of poles. The have his flesh "Black and blue" if it does vessel was bound to Shanghai. not break his bones. Recovered from one We have had the Danish frigate Tor-such thump he braces himself, holding on denskjold here for a week, but we learn she to the sides of the cart with both hands. will leave to-day, some say for the purpose The strain on the muscles of the arms is of making a connection of the Telegraph terrible; but woe to the passenger if wire betwixt this port and the Hongkong he relaxes his hold in the least, for the next and Shanghai cable. May our hopes be moment, and without the least warning, he fulélled.—The EU: is in harbour, and very finds himself knocked about in the same way. thankful we feel that she is, a8 itis the means of removing the unpleasant sensa-Those'of the party who had not the good tions human flesh is heir to, under the infortune to take donkeys, were soon satisfied flammatory proclamations of the Chinese. with their experience of cart riding, and Very little doing for London. Holmadale took to their feet, walking the greater part is full at £2 103s. and the Thyatira is of the distance. rapidly filling up at £3. There is an

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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