There are two principal methods of travel by which to reach the provincial capital from Tientsin, viz., by cart and by boat. By cart it is a three-days' journey, thumping and jolting over dusty roads, and sleeping at night in inns which can hardly meet the requirements of comfort which prevail in Western lands. To the initiated, description is unnecessary; to the uninitinted—well, if they ever expect to understand the ins and outs of the subject, let them make haste to get initiated. By boat, the journey occupies from three to five days, the time being chiefly dependent upon the direction of the wind, and the force of the current. This is by far the most comfortable and pleasant method of reaching Pao-ting Fu. With a good clean boat, a pleasant crew, a favourable wind, a complete larder and agreeable companions, the sail upto"Pao'fu"" is a very enjoyable one. There is greater variety and more picturesqueness of scenery than upon any other stream that branches out from Tientsin. The Pei-ho to Tung Chow, and the Grand Canal, going south, furnish nothing but the tamest of views. Although this stream passes through the same great plain of Chihli that the others do, yet very much more is observable that attracts the eye and gives pleasure. It is currently reported, however, that later in the season the voice of the mosquito is heard in the land, and that during his reign the "fairest prospect" ceases to be attractive. Probably this is the pleasantest time of year to make this trip,—sportsmen will choose the time when game abounds.
The beauty of this sail as compared with that on any of the other streams, is caused mainly by the fact that this stream passes through two small lakes on its way from Pao-ting Fu to The margins of these lakes are lined with reeds of luxuriant growth. Extensive waterways have been cut in all directions into the adjoining land, and much of the land adjoining the course of the stream in some parts appears to have been reclaimed by building out into the lake with mud scraped from its bottom. The islands thus formed are mostly covered with very heavy wheat which will be ready for the sickle in about three weeks. The production of reeds is very large. Indigo is planted in considerable quantity. Accretions are being made in many places, in the fresh mud of which the indigo plants are set and grow vigorously. Here and there is a village surrounded by these wheat islands, with an occasional vegetable patch, itself approachable only by boat, and by its picturesqueness adding greatly to the beauty of the scenery. Boats are plying in all directions, some fishing in the open lake either with net or a flock of cormorants others sweeping through the water-ways among the islands of wheat and reeds, altogether presenting a very animated and inspiriting scene, as weill asa very pleasant picture to hang in one's memory.
This whole section of country of which these lakes form a part is known as the wa §2$ or swamp land. When not inundated it is very fertile. Evidence of its former prosperity is seen in the predominance of brick over mud houses in the greater part of the villages within sight from the boats, Evidence of the present distress is soon in the quantities of old brick piled up along the way waiting a purchaser, About thirty or thirty-five li from Tiontsin, two dredgers are widening and deep ing the channel of this stream, This is well, but not well enough! What is needed is the careful application of engineering science and skill. This, itis believed, would in a few years' time restore to cultivation a large and fertile tract of country which is now liable to constant overflow, and which for years has been useful only as a fish-pond.
The stream becomes narrower and shallower as Pao-ting Fu is approached, and the traveller's only desire is that the journey may speedily be brought to an end.
26th May.
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.