The journey across the mountains from Baal Lu to T'ai-yuen Fu is full of interest to an observant traveller. If geologically inclined, he will find his time and attention fully occupied in studying the various deposits and mineral formations. As ho is entering into the loess-region, he will naturally be on the look-out for every sign that is likely to throw any light on the gin of this most interesting deposit. 'To one led in these matters, other features of the journey will probably occupy the more mind' prominent place in his unprofessional writer, though much in which has arisen in reget the loess, I would only that comparing the arguments adduced for the different theories which have been put forth, the question seems as yet to be far from settled.
Approaching Huai Lu from the plain, one cannot fail to notice the i shapes presented by the mountain: little to the left of the direct, approach, the configuration of the mountain tops assumes of a recumbent human figure proportions, with helmeted hands clasped general, the scenery falls far' behind that route which bears a tolerable this regard to the preci-fous cliffs along the Nan-kou Pass. In ort ravine, on the Chilli side of ig-ting Chou, 'a warning to travellers "not to loiter" is engraved in the solid rock. The bed of the mountain torrent is crossed a number of times, and between the crossings, arched rooms of solid ma-soury, about eight by twelve feet in size, have recently been erected, in which travellers caught by a sudden rush of the mountain torrent, and unable to advance or retreat, may take shelter, There are however some beautiful spots along th way; and from some fine views a valley of the Ching Hing river, which is followed by the road for quite distance, of quiet domestic a equal to any I have But the view which burets suddenly on on mit of a rather steep ascent is reached, and the South Heavenly Gate" is passed. Spread out at one's feet is a large valley, surrounded by mountains differing little in height from the summit on which the obover is standing. The beds of numerous water-courses,—mountain torrents when the summer \—-are seen emerging from behind spurs of the mountains, which extend into the valley from all directions, and all converging towards the principal entre of valley, Gually and distinct, others excavated in the perpendicular banks of loess, tier above tier to the number of five or six sometimes, their grey stone fronts forming a pretty contrast to the yellow earth all about them. Trees are scattered throughout the valle} and these, with the green fields, form another striking contrast to the perpendicular banks of loess, which yellow-line the valley in all dire dividing it into sections of all sizes and most fantastic forms. Some parts present the appearance of green terraces with a yellow facing, sometimes broken by the grey-stone fronts of the houses built in the bank; higher up the mountain sides, are the made-terraces faced with the grey or dark stone walls that are built up to retain the ear iti This grand panoramic view bursts on one with almost the suddenness of a flash of light as the "South Heavenly Gate" is passed; but the scene is like a beautiful poem, of the reading of which one never tires, and in which one finds some new attraction at every perusal. There is nothing rugged in the view; perhaps it scarcely rises to the majestic, even in scenery; yet there is a quiet grandeur and a soothing beauty which enters into the soul with such a restful influence that the eyes weary not with gazing. Once seen, it is a vision not easily forgotten, a picture worthy the pencil of a Biereiadt, The views from the East, North and West Heavenly gates (taking them in the order of {location from Huai Lu, westward), are much less extensive than that of the South Heavenly gate. Though some of them are well worth a notice, yet points of beauty seem to vanish from the mind after the one picture of the journey has been seen. The amount of work now doing upon this important line of communication is immense; and were it directed and supervised by @ competent engineer, would be of lasting and inestimable benefit to the province of Shavsi, One need only turn to Williamson's Journeys, vol. I: p.p. 282-3, to learn the almost impassable nature of the ascents to each of these
Phot across the ridge of the East Heavenly Hearonly (7) gates, in days, yone by. gate has been changed to a shorter and less elevated crossing near by, and by a cut in the rock of ton or twelve feet in depth has been greatly improved, All the ascents to these for gates have Aressed stones, presenting a comparatively been or are now being pave with large
smooth, even surface. Were it on a plain, this might be pronounced a good ror perhaps, until the seams began to be worn into holes; then the stone road from 'T'ung-chou to Peking well represents what would be, But being op hill-side, the roughly dressed surface soon wears perfectly smooth, and animals slip on the stones badly,—groatly endangering their limbs, indeed.
The entire length of this mountain is now undergoing thorough, repair, thorough for China, Extensive walla of masonry are being built, aggregating many miles in length, and ranging from one to twenty footing height, and the road filled in with stones and earth; too much of the latter to last, At some places, fairly good wards are provided against the side wash in the way of walls and drains, but they are not always made with that caro an strength which is necessary, as is indicated by the fact that the recent have washed away two or three li of the newly made road. A most important work is bo-ing dono, and I believe it is being as well done as it can be without the employment practical engineer. Much of the work and substanti structions of such improvements, would put into it, It locke compactness and unity, and does not exemplify the use of good material. The author deserve great praise for projecting and prosecuting with so much vigor to its pro-sent state of completion a public improvement of such immense value. The only pity is that it is not done under skilled and practical supervision, a0 as to be of more lasting The walls, though massive, are not strong; the filling insufficient, and often of poor material; the guards inadequate; the line not always wisely chosen. Yet it surpasses in real other public work I have soon in China, and as before said, for China it is well done.
12th Jul A considerable time ago a street ballad was put into my hands, written against England, in which all' foreigners were blended togetherasonenationality, Among
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.