The Archive · 1898

ZIGZAGS ACROSS THE MEDITERRANEAN

IN FOUR PARTS

are also the fairy-like Moors, which they most sing traveller to visit, with its triple row of di ed arches sped, of course. lying in her divan comfortably rocking her pretty sou an in his cradle, his andsomoly clad wife received us with hostable offers of tea and sweetmeats, but we lad leave to see four houses, so we hurried on conducted by laughing' slave women through the garden, and the larger, newly built and somewhat Europeanised additions to the house behind, of which they seemed very proud. But naturally we rather admire ed the stately entrance and largo patio, 403 together ith the beautiful Moorish car-Etawting rooms. Then o" to Attar's house, ts, and rich damask hangings of the with-

with actually a lovely view of the distant sea from his terrace, and enclosed garden, and the most exquisite patio in all Tetuan, both its proportions and its arches being so very graceful. The youngest of the party again revealed her youth by declaring one would never want to go out if one lived in such s house, whilst our Moorish host smiled sadly out of somewhat almond eyes at our compliments, and we passed in place of a patio we found a very large enclosed garden, all the walks paved with coloured tiles, and the venerable Hadj himeelf she most picturesque bit of his om. house, as he came forward to greet us, and. reclined in an easy chair in a long narrow room at the end of his beautiful garden, all perfectly eye-pleasing, but for a tinkling piano on which the youngest of the party proceeded to play to gratify the old man's pride, but somewhat to her own confusion, for many of the strings were cracked, and none werein tune. Woe wandered through the scented garden to the women's quarter, allured thereto by a lovely slave girl, the mother of the very prettiest little Moorish baby, and there all the slaves as usual clustered round us—Moorish slaves seem always Iaughing—and in triumphal pro-comino, male te sto the vast oise of the women's quarter both below and above, It was all very pretty, and it all looked out on to the pleasant enclosed garden, and if one had no mind at all, only sonastions, one might probably be vary happy th sheltered from every rough wind, ey: hot ray of sun, all' wants supplied, the te equable. Yet we were hardly surpr ed to hear that Moorish gentlemen themselves in the interior of these perfect palaces prefer the doorstep, where they often sit for hours long, seeing at least something sometimes go by. The slaves however seem merry enough. They had tambourines hanging up, but would not dance to them, and they welcomed our coming, nor seemed disposed to speed our going." But we had still to ce the pal of Hadj Mahommed Sebadi, Minister of Foreign Affairs at Tangiers, There there was a patio like that we had soon at Attar's, but somehow the exquisite grace vf it seemed lost in its increased size; there was, however, one withdrawing room at the far and of it, with a view of the distant sea, which would greatly brighten the enjoyment of it had one to live there, There was also a European carpet of most dia-tressing colour and pattern on the wall behind the divan, and various clocks and European things of a breakable nature.' It was all very beautiful but perhaps the sadder, because the Hadj's brother, who did the honours, has much sorrow in his life, and did not offer to show us the women's quarter, though we saw a slave woman standing expectant.

Then there were more hours of wandering in the streets, until at last all too soon we rode out, by the Ceuta gate this time, nnd so by the Jewish and Moorish cemeteries upon the hill, looking for all the world like all the shoots of Tetuan put out to dry with their tint white slabs of stone; taking one last memory of fair Tetuan from its best view point, and then in and out among the orchards, thus shortening somewhat the long sandy flat, although prolonging the whole ride, till once more we were carried through the waves into aboatand scoff tothe little steamer, that in a long three hours and s-half carried us back to the burnt-up rock of Gib, where no rain had fallen for months, and all the fresh plants were dust-covered, if indeed not dead. Even the aloes were Arooping, and aloes I never saw droop before during many long years of acquaintancoship with them. It is childhood's years that are ever the longest, one learns so much that is new in them.

At Gibraltar there was a military wodding, the six foot four and a-half Major of one regiment marrying the eighteunyear-old daughter of a Colonel of another, and both Regiments turned out to line the way, and all Gib altar to see. The officers drew their swords within the Cathedral, and made an arch of the bare blades down the aisle, through which came first the choir, girls clad in white surplices with College caps, and on this occasion scattering roses, then the tall bridegroom and his bride. Then just as we returned from Tetuan we had again a confused feel-

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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