It was on the top of an electric tram that I first realised the one great char.
ristic of Dublin. We were creeping into the city from Kingstown and thers Was a cart on the line ahead. Qur driver the cart lumbered on uncon: corned.
The tramear spoke up with its bells not impatiently but more in sorrow than in Grad it dawned on the man in front that being asked fo move aside; whereupon he brought a finger to bear upon the off rein, the cart 4 the trac narrowest possibly ngl. and we went on, after waiting tently until the cart's tail was clear of me. Had our motorman been a. Londoner, he would have said something sarcastic: an American, he would. have howled. Being an Trishinan, he took his and the passen They, ut vu bien antres, were equally unmoved. AIL the way into Dublin, kind were repeated. The along the tine and hour teaching the ear an object-lesson in the foolishness of hurry Dry ft their wagons across the tai strolled comfortably hack when the bel rang. and 3 and harmony.
This on vests Dublin, and ireland generally, with a peculiar charm, front the holid x point of view. Alike in city and country he finds himself leisurely, amiable people who Tittle to do as himself. Hitherto T erded the Irishman as fi mercurial being. ne thy way of 1 on his native heath, Hit appears almost as phlegmatic asa Chinaman. Watch a morning suburb in unloading its passengers at station. Out of two hun: about two display having no time to waste. The rest step out arriages in a leisurely stroll. off and wait for the tram, rather thaw run after the one is just starting. Nothing moves quickly it Dublin except the sharp little ponies that rattle the jaunting-cars over "stone pavements. In other cities, the rush and roar of tref! apt to tire
about. but in Dublin one is as undisturbed tone as much as th ion of, walking xe
by this external influence as if one ina country town, Nowhere is si hitseeing less fatignin a general way. Dublin has very much of an old-fashioned London. Trinity Colleze, the Bank of Ireland, the wir Courts, the Custom House and the Hall suggest distant relationship to Paul's, the Bank of England, the Roy Exchange and other grimy features in the metropolitan landscape. There are many miles of rectangular brick fronts and uncompromisingly regular windows of the Gower Street type. with just the front door.
Dublin looks as in fora outburst of cree TV and fallen back exhausted by the effort. One of the few traces of modern architecture hides itself in the quadrangle of Trinity where two new blocks in entirely ferent styles have been erected. Most of the other public buildings, except. the two cathedrals, have a severely classic There isa certain majesty about carved columns in the facade of the Hous's of Parliament, now the Bank of Ireland, on Collezo' Green (the sharon holders, esalted beings, hold their meetings in the House of Lords!), but you
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.