No place in Kansu that T have seen excels this district for beauty. I just longed to have been here in the summer. The whole countryside is covered with trees, and their autumn tints of every shade of yellow and green enhanced the beauty the scenery. Here and there, where there was a little open space, a little Tibetan village nestled snugly. Our path first lay down the face.of precipitous red sandstone rock, then entered the glen, crossed a stream, up through a wood and down into another glen. Truly this latter might be called 'The Lovers' Glen," and who knows but many a Tibetan lad and lassie have plighted their troth among the trees and rocks bordering on this little stream. It was a lovely morning as we followed the winding stream. Its merry laughter as it struck rock here or boulder there fell sweetly on the ear, and) was in melody with the quaint song of the Tibetan lassies herding their flocks on the mountain side. In China, yet not of China; in China where the wee Chinese lassies sit on the doorstep nursing their cruelly bound feet; where intercourse with lads their own age is strictly forbidden. In China, yet not of China, these Tibetan lassies of freedom, full of frolic and fun, strong and bonny, lead a happy semi-wild life born of the nature of the country in which they live. The 10 li to the Lamasery was surely 25 li for it took us 21 hours to tramp it.
Tue Livine Bropua's Laaasery.
At 9 o'clock, we reached Namtso, the private Lamasery of Kerung Fuh-ie. Here a warm welcome awaited us. They came running to meet us, took our animals, fastened them up, and led us to the best room, where we were soon regaled with steamed bread and tea. Being special guests, besides the milk and salt in the tea, a large slice of butter was added. Not quite fresh? No, not quite, a distinct flavour of its own, but being special guests it ought to be a little high. Is it not so with our famous Stilton cheese, that it must have the maggots crawling, or with our grouse that it is aristocratic that they should be high, so our Tibetan friends also honour us thus, though one's inner man wishes it was not thus. Conversation runs rife and gradually the honoured guest has delighted the heart of his host by the disappearance of the contents in his asin.
In an opening in the glen stands this little Lamasery, surrounded by a few small houses, the background, a forest, and facing high sandstone rocks on the other side, with the stream of frolicking water playing past the foot of the rocks. A quieter spot for meditation could not be found. It was built about eight years ago and is the residence of about a dozen priests. The place is in charge of a young man and his pretty young wife, dressed! in her handsome gown adorned with many silver ornaments, Pinuars or Sanpstone.
I have already remarked upon the high sandstone rocks facing the Lamasery. These rocks are discon-netted and rise to the height of 200 to 300 feet like great pillars, The whole country for the distance of 10 miles to the east is m Jess dotted with these huge pi of sandstone. It-gives one the impression of being a great giant city wall, having by lapse of time partly crumbled away, leaving the pillars. vhere in China. have I remainder looking like great huge
seen anything approaching this 1e-markable feature in nature. So firm do these pillars of sandstone stand, that none of them were overthrown by the serious earthquake last year.
In the forests the musk-deer finds shelter and pheasants abound|, as it ts forbidden to shoot them in Lama land. Three miles down the valley from the Lamasery we again enter the valley of the Yellow River, pass the Tibetan village of Nuer, when the valley narrows into a six-mile pass, then opens again into a wide valley. Here we come in touch with the Salar Mahommedans, pass the home of the Tibetan Chieftain, and at last reach the private palatial residence of Ko-rung Fuh-1e, the Living Buddha—the first Living Buddha of the Red Sect to visit. Peking since the beginning of the Manchu Dynasty. When he did so, it will be remembered, he was received graciously by the President and entertained at a feast in the President's Yamen. He it was also who was sent as Special Delegate to Lhasa last year by the Chinese Governnient.
Four years had passed since I visited' his home, and on this occasion found the old premises all pulled down and an entirely new residence built within a high enclosure, 360 feet by 180. A handsome doorway was. being erected when we arrived. At the back of the premises is a large garden abounding with flowers of vast varieties many grown from foreign seed. At the very end ig a Conservatory.
In front of the garden, in the first courtyard are the rooms of the family, as he is a married man with eight children. A telephone 1s fixed up to the room of his chief steward. In the same courtyard he has a large dispensary, chiefly of Tibetan medicines. He is a Doctor of Medicine (Tibetan). Next in front, is the guest room and above it the prayer hall. I have never seen such a luxurious guest room in China. On the floor a rich
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.