Thrilling Experience with an Ava-lancha: Gen. Bruce's Belief un Future Success General G. C. Bruce, writing from Rongbuk Glacier Base camp on June 11, gives the following graphic account of the final attempt by his expedition to scale Mount Everest June 7 saw the final try for Everest. I regret to have to chronicle a disaster, a terrible ending to what, up to the time when my last despatch was written, had been an exceptionally successful expedition, In order to lead up to the fatal day, it is necessary to give a short account of our position. I can only say that, bad as the disaster was, it was as nearly as possible a much greater tragedy. Everest is a terrible enemy and the chances against those attacking it very great. It visits the smallest error of judgement with the most terrible punishments: like the rest of nature, it has no pity. The monsoon was approaching and little time was left. Unfortumately, already some of the party—namely, Strutt, Longstaff and Morshead—had been obliged to return to Darjeeling, Morshead needing special treatment for his frost-bites. Norton and Captain Bruce were also obliged by a lower altitude in the charta the state of their health to to
Valley and were, therefore, not available.
However, there were still six men left for the final effort; therefore, the party was organized with two motives. So little time was left, because of the monsoon and consequent bad weather, that it was necessary to evacuate the camps on the East Rongbuk Glacier and the camps on the slopes of Everest itself during the time an effort to climb was being made. It was quite clearly understood that this effort should only be undertaken if the weather was really fine, and the party was warned to exercise the greatest care. The party consisted of Mallory, Somervell and Finch, with Wakefield and Craivford in support, and Morris in charge of the evacuation. It left the main base camp on June 3, in threatening weather. During the night, the weather got worse and a heavy snowstorm continued for 36 hours. Most. unluckily, Finch, feeling the results of his great exertions in the attack on Everest, on arriving at Camp One, was unable to continue and returned to the base hamp to join the party returning to Darjeeling the next day.
The remainder of the party arrived at Camp Three on June 5. On June 6, the weather cleared and the party had a day of rest in glorious sunshine. There is always great danger at the great heights of the Himalayas of feet getting frost-bitten when an early start is made, therefore the
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.