Just/how much. and how little woman's place was in the henie in sonal service," which took the time Miss Mary Van Fleeck, writing: several years ago, noted that "five and a half pages of close, small type of a government report were required for a mere listing, in Paragraph form, of the processes in which women were actually sul stitutes for men" during that war. Miss Van Fleeck added that these Processes "ranged in their main At the recent Chrictmas dance lace of gold and tiny blu tut sponsored ty the Oversea Students' into the shape of lowers and Tease, [Club of St. John's University. the and a narrow bracelet to match are frocks worn by the ladies were's0 beaulful nese seo lovely and picturesque that st The mize for the Lest dancing the pager of the Tatest fashion Suu the Boor Was aseaded Robert Fan, well-book. The mode of these pages is jue Drs, Fan reclly.an international one, wu to local society for the looked very. stu inning in a Chinese. the year of grace 1930 comes out who worked for wages, Mechanical @ivisions from blast furnaces and form fof about one in every four of those newest. models from Paris, New York's Fifth; Avenue ged Costame, fashioned in the straight clearly in the occupational statistics industries came next, with 22. per ***e) Works to longing camps and versions "irom* Lecaors encase shouette saw mills." of made public recently by William M. leant; clerical work third, with 1 printed velvet, shops mingle with the latest crea-Brown and burnt Steuart, Disector of the Census. cent; professional service Women were found to lo very. orange satin tions of Shanghai to form a cosmo- whi frock, Almost exactly 73 out of every 100 ith 19 per cent., and good in the manufacture of light' ich owes politan mode, With the exception Bracefulness to ths. 'American females between the ages trade fifth, with 7.8 per cent. parts in machine shops, in wood-of 16 and G4 consider their places Jof the high collar, one can hardly Probably it is the item of "pro-working, in the making' of optical distinguish the Chinece costume if fon in the most delectable to be in the home. They wash fessional service" which bulks and airer fine instruments, cad in from the foreign, BS nearly every. shai ide of fashions a gown dishes, cook and clean house, or largest in the minds of those who handling some kinds of rheet metal. frock resembles some mmedsl Tree cAchantingly demure in. the new Givect others in these necessary reflect upon the liberation of women, This may not have" been a victory'
Suzanne Talbot, Lucile Paray, mann of youth. A high waistline chorts, to a sufficient extent to with trade next. Doris E. Fleisch: for feminism: after all, a "female" [Schiaparelli and other couturiers of 204 triple tiered skirt are featured, justify listing them as housewives. man, in a symposium published a might ask, who wants to handle Paris, or Sally Milgrim, Bergdorf Tiny rosebuds held in place by a They may also play bridge or golf, year or two ago, listed some forty-sheet metal? But every piece of Goodman of New York, the Trades jeweled brooch give a pleasing attend meetings of the women's work that women lips ey go motoring, But ea far [ave careers, five "careers" for women. At that for women, At that] Nid never or rarely done etore[Sfaquent arse, that womenlor London, or Shanghai's own "Meet to the coiffure. A gold-andr Siver lamné weep inthe one as the face of the returns goes they for" as certified public accountants Relped establish her as a fitty-fifty ante ses ate dee Tength is resplendent with the are statistically the mainstay of fit" 3 Gnited States. In, advert Partner—sometimes competitor—ot "Heseaintion of every dress, space WxiNious white fox" cellar and that old-fashioned institution," the lin tattowinge the list aiphabetie- Per husband, brother or father.
Jail not permits for this colarin Cus.
American home. Their husbands jally—the feminin provide the family income, They, in their capacity of homemakers, spend a good share of it—perhaps nearly all of it, 'Thus, for seven women out of ten, the fundamental situation has not greatly" changgd since the days when the' fatter of the. family Uragred home the deer meat and the bear skins, and the mother Kept the fire burning in the eave, cooked the mest and: made the skins nto viceable. Winter overcoats Wor demand, Architecture had a few feminine practitioners, though not all schools were broadminded Jenough to admit them as students. is a partner rather than a posse sion. On election day she goes the polls—at least she is about as ikely. to do #0 some extent. present the more compact home and the smaller allotment of children to the average family.
It is the pay envelope rather than the, wore ani hat 6 symbole thow in industry, since most Women can hardly be ald indus-to. be tries began in tasks carried on within the household. Nor has she, any country, east or west, been Fpared at some time in her career the heaviest of toil, Women still work in the fields in many parts of Europe. As late as. 1842" women were Working inthe English coal mines, dragging heavy cars along underground passages. They were absorbed into the factory system, in this and other countries, as soon fas it developed.
It was in 1842 that Charles Dickens visited the model factory tows of Lowell and was surprised and delighted at the health: and good The war emergency passed. But/the writer has chosen the outstand- Mousseline de sole in pale the occupational lists of the census taken nearly two years-later showed that there was still very little that women would not try. At that time the "gainfully employed" females included, among others, two "foresters, forest rangers and timber cruisers"; thirteen "owners and managers of timber camps"; eight foremen, overseers and inspectors'
the extraction of metals; five locksmiths, forgeman and hammiermen"; five coopers; five machinists; three "toolmakers and die setters and sinkers"; nine sawyers; three annealers and emperors; three stonecutters; two "captains, masters, mates and pilots"; four street cleaners; forty-one technical engineers; one veterinary surgeon; thirty-three bootblacks and three plumbers. Since 1920 women have also qualified in the field of boot-
come to figure largely Hegeing and the "run mol!" has fand fiction of gang' life. These the latter activities are not pointed with pride, but they round out a Picture of womanhood trying every" thing once.
In the field of industrial relations woman, with her long experience in soothing the hungry Settling the squabbles of childhood, male and is at home. If she is as sympathetie as a woman ought to be she can sell insurance. Nearly 6,000 women were engaged in journalism as editors and reporters at the time of the last census. Not by any means all of them were "sob sisters" either. Women lawyers have long ceased to be regarded as jing few. Mi Hawks-Pott, the ®4¥ahiarine combines with lace to charming wife of the president of ake another very individual frock, the Uni rainy, wore "a dignified Th deep flounce at the bottom of Lanvin own' of Mack' Cheng the skirt, set-in sleeves and Chinese collar are developeit in cobwebby lace dyed to match.
Con mbimation of mousseline and Meo is considered very chie the present moment as the, Parisian ccuturiers " have placed so much stress. on Ince. sive the right expression of kanco to the feminine mode.
A crisp frock of yellow taffeta rains distinction by its effective use of a sharp outstanding puff at the back that suggest: the modes that led to the bustle of the eighties. On one shoulder " and running around. the arm-hole "im front are flat yellow roses which la trate the revival of artificial flowers. An encrusted yoke of gold lace gives the impression of a doen. back-decollectage. moat fetching' gowna' worn' that jeveming. It is fashioned of shell. pink satin, skilfully combined: with, {ulle to interpret the present trend "of fabric contrast sponsored by [New York's exclusive shops.
The skirt is beaut'"ally cut to give length and fullness to back. The tulle hem tune: tole the sides '|lehie point in the front.
Short ves are quite original high waistline is frankly suggested by an encieling seam. he next it tration shows: ax other gown which is sponsored by Paris and modified by Shanghai: he flaring peplum, which echoes. th lines of the cirevlar Charles observed, in his hearty, democratic way, "I like to see the humbler class of society careful of their' dress: and appearance, and even, if they please, decorated with vich little trinkets as come within the compass of their means."
The humbler class of society with its dislike for starvation, entered the working world before its more fortunate sisters were allowed to do so. The. shrinking, blushing, fainting lady of the Victorian period was an expensive Tuxury. The chivalry which maintained her in her fragile perfection saw nothing incongruous in compelling "females' riot classified as "ladles" to work themselves, literally, to death. So the liberating movement of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries gave the average woman not 1 choice between working and not working, but between "doing something she liked less and something she Tiked more, But while this was taking place our grandparents and great-grandparents were' going from one spasm into another at the thought of women doctors, women lawyers, and—direct of all—women politicians. Women could drag cars of coal and In the fine arts, judging by "one-man shows" held in a typical season in New York City, men were four times as numerous or considered four times as important as women.
In banking, as long as'two years ago, about 2000 women held executive positions. In the fields of child welfare, costume de: dietetics, drama, ° education, economies, interior decorating, ibrarianship, motion—_ pictures, nursing, secretarial work, social' service and merchandise styling, women were easily successful. Yet there were significant gaps. Although no motion picture producer could get, along for a day without his women stars, there have been only about half a: dozen recognized motion picture directors' wap were women. In the legitimate theatre women stage managers or assistant stage managers are rare. Three women, in 1928, had managed ito get and hold official places in the on record, and one railroad is said to have had in its employment at Jone time five women passenger representatives, one woman lawyer. seventeen crossing watchwoman, five women shopworkers and one, woman "engineer of service" who opt, a housewifely eye on the rail road's relations with its patrons. There were successful women stock:
In short, it is now difficult to find an occupation of any. consequence in which woman are not represented, in large numbers or small. The interest in the detailed occupation statistics of the 1990 census will lie in their picture of increasing armies of women in fields which have been sparsely peopled with them.
No modern woman is likely to do anything more startling than some woman of history: has done before her. She will probably not excel i breaking horses, as a certain Mme. Isabella did, who functioned as a rancho" buster for the French and Russian Armies eighty years ago. She will not pioneer as a soldier or sailor, a flagpole sitter or an'explorer, a politician or an engineer. Everywhere she will" find other women ahead of her. But she ma A satin and tulle evening, dress the latent mode lace effectively combined with The sleeves with their graceful drapery from the late very new and distin repetition of the drayei Jakirt adds another note of interest. The skirt reaches just to the ankle which ix the most wearable of all Jamert Iengths for even'ns.
One of the lady prize-winners for the spot-dance wore a delightfal dress of turquoise blue satin developed in the princess style with. inserted flares at each side of the front and back. Tiny velvet flowers. with a narrow ribbon placed at the waistline give a youthful touch, jand" turqu pumps with of the back.
The buckle of exquisite coloured stones is very smart, The fewing, graceful lines wre unusual ly attractive by making use of qua ivory chiffon velvet, still a, favourite material for evening wear, Extraordinary cutting lends distinetion to the Mack velvet wrap which lined with soft fur An adaptation of Vionnet's: latost ick velvet gown admirably suited to one of the older women jong those ent at the dance. The bodice, Jerovses low in back, where it is held by softly tied bows, A beaded' belt marks the high waist, and the skirt fall is in supple folds. "A w hire lapip ay let creates anew silhouette, quite pleasing and effective, The ensemble still continues" its hie late into the evening as secre in a costume fashioned of fly lace.
Slender French heels are partiealar-jin the new boxwood shade.
The Ly flattering. An exquisite neck: straight gathered skirt sections are joined in a graceful rounded line imitating man's ways in business to the upper part, ce cting an Jand_ the profession she ac- interesting uneven how.line inthe tually. doing 50?
Or is she intro- frock of this charming blue: endacinz and will she more and more semble.
There is a slight drapery ireeehuce methods of her own which about the waist line. The jacket it are different?
'AIL that one can this case is nade of plain chitfont Sus ie that she has not yet revolu having' a shaped bolero me and 69 cPunilie eta closen or mote American Consular serv hane"hatiet & Serout onpatnes tionized business any more than she $271 children, but. they were allozether That is istory—and rather dusty in" occupations In. which she. has (2S Politics. So far. however, shel, toned has ore than she suking evenios Sraek anion track. if too delicate to sit with their feet on history a tha. But its moral is|heretofore Seen regarded chiefly as P&S (een business and in the ay desk and read Blackstone or drive from sick bed to sick bed with a little case of pills or vials.
Tu 1920 the most important occupation for' women, quantitatively speaking, was "domestic and per. that ye shall learn more by considering "gainfully occupied" women in terns of what they-do than im terms of absolute numbers. The detailed data on feminine occupations in 1280 has still to be coming novelty.
When this has happened, and perhaps before, a question will come up which even Director Steuart of the Census Bureau may find hard to answer. Will oman compete by of politics, a minority. party.
When embroidered with ting paillettes: ijt '27 women out of every 100 between the manner of Suzanne 16 and 64 stay-at-home to: wash, The trimming. is. repeated on ith dishes and the other 73 go out to|smart bell cults. of the long sleeves shop office we may see some/and the hem of the long graceful
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.