Choosing a Distinctive Material is the First Step in the Creation of a Distinctive Gown "Axt in Industry." We hear these words everyhere—and all about us, in every walk of our daily lives we hoe the result—a world richer in a canty which is a part of the life we lead, not just an extraneous Something. Beauty is its own ex-fuse for being, but when beauty can Be woven into the fabric of our lives it becomes something. more than Pant becomes the reason for our ing.
Great artists of modern times do not hesitate to lend their talent quaking beautiful even mundane! things, We see the touch of their and the mark of their spirit in the decorations of our homes, even our kitchens and in the ' office buildings which tower around—us. And since colour always has been a tool with which the artist works we {find in it one of the chief aids to this present day beauty of ours. So it i Mot astonishing that some of the), most brilliant artists are giving a share of their talents to the designing of fabrics. Hence the real art appearing to-day in prints.
This is in keeping with our times, firn eva of commerealism. If the om ratist gave himself to lon, exclusive study of one subject as did the artist of olden times he would be trampled beneath the foot of commercialism. Yesteryear's artists breated for the to-morrows. To-day's artists must live for today or be left behind in the race of so-called modernism.
Whence have they drawn their Anspiration for the fabrics of 19307 From the sky above, from the earth aneath and from the waters under} the earth.
Of terrestrial inspiration are the Juid-night blue silks and chiffons pattered with silver crescents and gleaming stars. OF the earth earthy fare the new and amusing chiffons depicting vegetables of various Worts and a garden print on which rakes and flower pots jostle one another in delightful confusion.
there is a pattern composed of graph records—eall that what ike.
The sea and its lore furnished the Anspiration for silks weres which gulls fly or on which streaming nants and ribbons flutter. Under-wet flowers, coral and fish furnish the motif for a series of astonishing new prints There are a number of interesting! motif prints, such as the little church, the house and the trees and road motif which Sehinparelli showing in white on black—twill here are conventional flowers ows and little geometric lines arranged in novel formations.
Many of the floral designs rival in colour and design the canvases of} the great painters of all time. An outstanding artist of Japan designs prints in the manner typical of his country. French silk makers devi scones that depict the life of thei country. The greatest portrait painters of the age are doing designs for the kings of the silk looms So how can the interest in printed materials flag? There is too much! genius back of them for that to happen for many a day or many a year.
Much has been said this about fashions and the clock. Skirts fare depicted as lengthening with the hours of the day and just so do the patterns of materials change.
designs are suited to frocks!
wus hours. There is a print] for the morning, the five o'clock print, one for the cocktail hour and another suitable only for evening. As the hands of the clock move on tint patterns grow larger and more splashy. Having started'at nine in in the morning with silks or woolens Adored with small patterns—polka dots, checks or stripes, fruit, flowers for foliage—we find ourselves at the dinner hour with huge blastoma of tropical inspiration sprawling across the materials of our dresses.
'As for the fabrics which are figured—there are velvets, crepes de chine, Tames, ating, taffetas, rose sors, moires, alpacas, chiffons, cottons and woolens. 'There is practic. ally nothing' that cannot be printed fand everything. apparently is.
Printed tussers are ideal for sports Tiny flowers are liked oF sometimes fecks of colour! are scattered over the plain surface. Combined with shantang in plain colours such silks make delightful jand we find the fable houses making two materials printed in the same pattern for use in combination, such a silk in a small floral design and mousseline with the identical tern greatly enlarged.
Then there are the printed woo-Hens, many of them soft enough and me enough to be used as alterna-for silk in costuming. The! new woolens start with a fine voile, tas delicate as silk, which is being featured both in plain and figured patterns, und run through a series loosely woven materials with continually heavier threads until, they! they reach a coarse, knobbed, but always soft fabric with a deep pile.
is Is like a heavy turkish toweling with shiny uneven heavy threads ronning through it, Tt is used for all sorts of coats from the little coatees to full-length coats.
'Many of the Jerseys and balbrig-Jeans of the new weaves are as sheer Jand soft as shetland lace although' more closely woven, Chantal made a point of these at her recent open-jing. She featured them in the dresses in her "Cure de Soleil" section. Every house in Paris used them for blouses, usually sleeveless Jor with very short sleeves, Jersey is being made of pure linen threads by Rocher. Ardanse makes extensive use of this jersey for: "pull-over" beach dresses cut on! exactly the same lines as dinner: gowns. To these costumes she adds coat of the bolero length or slight~ ly longer.
Silk pique is in great vogue for fall sorts of clothes, even gloves. Silk and wool mixtures in" twill weaves and various flecked materials in both wool and silk are given prominence. The most [cular of these is the neigel fof Rocher. The name describes it, for it really has the appearance of having been lightly snowed upon.
Jerseys that are so soft in appearance that you think them crepes until you examine them closely are decidedly good and include fascinating printed patterns.
Jersey tweed, both sides of w! Jare used in combination with a tweed which is also reversible, is another important fabric. The Rudic of last season, highly finished, is shown in 'a number of new variations and is expected to be a success for next] winter, emphasizing the note for smooth finished effects in formal coatings.
Texture and weave portant parts of the now materials.
One very novel material is a checked crepe chine with alternate!
a crinkled effect that is teresting. Tu the middle of each of the plain flat checks a flower is printed.
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.