HIS Canadian trip is named from the unique beauty of Emerald Lake which lies seven miles from Field station in Yoho National Park and not a a great way from Lake Louise and Banff. So clear is this lake that trout may Be discerned at thirty feet in its crystal depths, though its real fascination lies in its gorgeous: hues running the spectrum from deep emerald through jades to delicate aquamarine. A slight puff of wind ana the entire lake is a weaving jewelled brocade. Becalmed, its translucent surface reflects, with remarkable fidelity, its guard of honour, the serried ranks of high red and white pine that line its shores. How it achieves its astounding colouring is a puzzle, It drains a chain of lakes and streams that bear it no resemblance whatever and its as pan fish and if you would welcome a change from hoisting a tent for the night there is a trapper's cabin in the vicinity available to you.
The portage out of Nicholson Creek into Narrow Lake is three hundred yards long. You will find it on the right hand side of the stream. And now you are in a section regarded as the choicest for moose, deer, bear and perhaps an occasional caribou.
Here, again, the camera enthusiast will do well to be on the alert. Indeed, having passed through Narrow Lake and "lifted" for the portage at Island Rapids, it would be well to stop and do a little exploring in this vicinity, because nearby is a "moose meadow" where you are almost certain to becomes quite wide with the rapids consequently more hazardous. A good many of them may be avoided, however, by making the portage over into Bonar Lake. This cut-off, as indicated on the map, is about a mile past Schewabik and marked so well that it cannot be missed. It takes about half a day to negotiate but is well worth the long "lift" to Bonar, eliminating, as was pointed out, much rough going on the river.
The rest of the way to Kapuskasing Lake (the top of the loop) is ordinary river travel with three portages of not more than three hundred yards long. Kapuskasing will reward the angler with some exceptional fishing for large pike and walleyes. At its northern eric lies the village weed-beds, and you are within a short carry of the piece de resistance of this remarkable cruise.
An attempt has been made at the beginning of this article to describe the magnificance of Emerald Lake. But words are poor futile things at best. Silent admiration is the least respect it deserves. Suffice te say that it will remain a jewel in your memory for the rest of your life, While its lake trout are plentiful they seem to "take" better in the autumn for some reason or other.
The last extensive water encountered on the trip is Loon Lake reached by a four hundred yard portage from Emerald Lake. Nine miles long, it is studded with islands. intense tones may be ascribed to some peculiar pigment in the lake bed itself.
The Emerald Circle canoe cruise is roughly elliptical in shape, approximately 160 miles long and requires about two weeks to accomplish in a reasonably leisurely manner. It embraces a certain amount oí
"white water," all of which, however, may be circumvented by comfortable and well-marked portages. These are kept in such good condition primarily for the fire rangers and game wardens who patrol this region religiously that wild life may be protected from every. conceivable ravage.
Fringing the eastern boundary of the Chapleau Game Preserve for seventy-five mils of interesting water travel, this cruise passes through a country where wild life is plentiful and seldom disturbed "Going-In" Point Chapleau, somewhere around 65 miles from Vancouver, or 608 miles from Montreal, is the embarkation point on the Kebisquashing River. A short paddle of two miles and you are past the last dwellings you are going to see for eighty miles, until you reach the village of Elsas at the northernmost or turning point of the trip In fact it is extremely doubtful if you find another soul along the water trail that lies before you trave! eu COOM ad in a short stretch of The firs, sevorf miles is ordinary river fast water that speeds you into Henderson Lake. And so soon you are in primitive territory—the unbounded freedom you have dreamed about on long winter evenings Here it is—and in the nine miles of this lake lie big northern pike ready to give you your first pulse-tingling thrill of the season. At the end of Henderson into Robinson Lake the first "carry" occurs—short easy one of only 75 yards. It is "n excellent camp site from which to fish so these waters, although it might be well te nush on to the end of Robinson, another three miles, for the first overnight stop where a portage of about three hundred yards affords another desirable camp site. A Government winter cabin has been erected here.
The next 35 miles lies through some low marshy terrain split by the comparatively narrow Chapleau River. Several portages ar^ necessary; none difficult and all well cut While you are negotiating this water highway, keep your eye peeled for moose, the surrounding swamps providing unusual feeding grounds for this regal animal. Better keep your camera within easy reach, for though you may surprise him munching unconcernedly at a succulent lily tuber, he will, after a swift disdainful look, go swinging into {he bush.
River Travel The rest of the route to the next considerable body of water—Lake Schewabik— is through some interesting country. Edith Lake River and Nicholson Creek contain some striking rapids and waterfalls. There are five portages, the longest of which is four hundred yards long. At high water, however, some of the "swifts" may be run in a canoe.
Nicholson Creek is a rather deep stream harbouring speckled trout of a size perfect canoe, a competent guide astern to wield the paddle. get a "shot" or two at several of the antlered monarchs. And beyond Island Rapids you will see many signs of beaver, which, when you realize the scarcity of this indefatigable toiler, should convince you that here is virgin territory.
Cruise Highlights The river now widens and flows betwe^n heavily wooded banks. There are a few portages before it spills into Schewabik Lake, but none of them will tax your strength or patience unduly. This lake is an attractive sheet of water. It is about six miles long and half a mile wide and spawns a particularly large species of great northern pike. Wall-eyes are also to be freely taken. The shores have good beaches and camp sites and about a mile and a half from the northern extremity of the lake, on the left hand side, the Government maintains a fine fire ranger's cabin which is available to you if you feel so disposed. Don't be surprised if you come across an Indian family by the name of Samakeese encamped somewhere about here. They trap in this region and make Schewabik their headquarters.
There is a short carry of ninety yards out of the lake into the river which now (Left) Modern voyagers in camp on a Canadian river. (Right) Fishing from a Emerald Lake takes its name from the amazing colour of its water. of Elsas, a former lumbering town, the turning point of the cruise.
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.