The Archive · 1898

Cycling Round the World

THROUGH A LONG DREAR LAND — A DESOLATE REGION OF CHINA

SIXTY-SZCOND ARTICLE, Tungehuan, China, It was the last day in September, a bright, cheery afternoon, when we left' Yunnan: song. Our host, Mr. Jensen, accompanied. us to beyond the East Ga'e, which isa great three-storied structure, buttressing the heavens with immense caves. The sellers of sweetmeats and knick-knacks forsook their stalls to see the foreigners and their iron horses; there were hearty hand-shakes many good wishes, and then we were into the saddle spinning, aay north-east towards the contre of China. The plain was aglow with rice and poppy fields, and when we had crossed it the land was humped as though gist moles had burrow: ed beneath the pastures, and on many of the wounds rose monoliths crowned by worn lions or dogs, tail-less and nosclees through stress of weather. We ran through a protected village. There was a big dry moat, and auks were crowned with dark-limbed pines. And beyond this, when we had biden. farewell to the swampy fields where the buffaloes were merrily wallowing in mire, we came to hills, torn and rent by mountain floods, but with shady copses in the dells.

who shadows were growing long as we spun into the town "f Panchiao. Every body was sitting out-of-doors, eating their evening rice, But rice-bowls were pitched chop-sticke lost.in the soxmpor Wo looked for some convenient On reaching the far and of the town we had to turn back and search again. We asked the crowd to alow us the way, but they only grinned and yelled. And tall fellow, with only one eyo, and pockmarked, gained the plaudits of his friends by discourteous criticism, and eventually little hustling. It was necessary to have a mack at that one.oyed Chinese, if only. to ensure a modicum of respect. Folks fell back. Then they set their dogs us, Gerce parinh brates that sniff a foreigner half-a-milo off, and snarl and obstruct the way worse than the Stambont. A ferocious monster fight. In aw instant one of us drow a revolver, and the next instant the animal was lying yelping with s bullet in_ its shoulder. Thereupon the crowd receded. We found a hotel, and there was lio more bother, When we rode away-the, next morning everybody was respectful. But the only koictow we received was front the man whose dog was killed, though, ho took the preliminary precau 5 a taper at his doorway, either to propitiate us or as a safeguard against evil consequences.

Commercial gentlemen and others who frequent the hostelries of far Cathay have 8 habit—not unknown in more western Iands—of scribbling their names on the walls with accompanying doggrel verse, or maybe some pious saying of Blencius. Wo were examining cursurily this writing on the wall when we saw the name, in feminine flowing hand, of Lottie Graham." We wore as much startled as though we had been a trio of Nebuchadnezzars. Who was Lottie Graham who wandered in unknown China, stayed at Chinese inns, and wrote her name above the beds? We were puzzled, we wore perplexed, we wore noxplussed. "Lottie Graham " had a faraway home-made smack about it. We racked our memories for the recollection of any Lotties among our acquaintances whose surname was Graham, And then it dawned upon us that among the good missionary ladies of Yunnan there wasa Mrs. Grubam. Pet-haps her first name is Lottie, and may ko

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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