The Archive · 1924

How to Get Good Tones

'The beautiful tones varying from light sepia to deep brown, so much admired but seldom. seen in amateur work, are obtained bromide paper' with ease and tainty as a result. of experience and experiment. The secret is a properly-exposed print, fully developed to a factor of five to six with an elon-hydroquinone developer; the toned colour will then vary. according to the amount of bromide used, The more bromide used the darker the final brown; the less, the lighter the sepia." Too much bromide re the high-lights unduly or entirely, and degrades the tone, Developers Kenerate bromide when used con-Xinuously and thus the colour resulting from developer which has been used before will not be the same as fresh developer; it is advisable for enlargements to use the developer in small quantities and twice at the most, No poor-toned ack print will give a good sepia; good rich black to start with is essential, Amidol black better" than elon-hydroquinone black, notwithstanding the general belief to the contrary, and the toned dark browns of the latter are fully equal to those of the former. "Any standard ferricyanide bleacher will work. Blisters during sulphiding are a result of different temperatures in the various solutions including the washing-water; otherwise they will not occur; in' hot weather prints to be toned should be hardened first. Handle the prints carefully as sulphiding makes them very' soft and easily damaged.

A Warm Weather Process is Sulphiding first, then bleaching and re-sulphiding increases the depth of deep browns but is not good when real sepias are quired. Hypo-alum toning is extremely convenient in warm we ther as all that is necessary is that the print be placed in it direct from the fixing-bath and left there overnight; in the morning they are fully toned, becomes too slow in cool weather unless the solution is heated. The most practical way of making the hypo-alum toring solution is to take 40 ounces of hot water, add five ounces ordinary hypo, then tone ounce alum; after which add 20 drops of nitrate of silver, This latter is'important as otherwise the hypo and alum combine to form a reducer. This solution lasts indefinitely, costs extremely little, and improves with use.

The effect of sulphide toning (hypo-alum results are identical chemically) is to convert the metallic silver into silver sulphide. The latter is transparent and thus gives far richer effects than nontransparent metallic black silver. It is therefore invariably more beautiful even though an almost black sulphide tone is made. A sulphide-toned print is absolutely permanent and will last as long as the paper support, because unless the print was washed free of hypo it would have been destroyed inthe toning.

The reason for this is that hypo and ferricyanide combine to form powerful reducer, well-known the "Farmer" reducer; hence the need for thorough washing before toning. Sepia, dark browns, and black are the most suitable colours for chemical toning. Do each process thoroughly if absolute permanenice is wanted, Partial

Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.

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