Peking, June 5.
"One of most enjoyable' walking trips I have ever made. Greeted with perfect ilendliness everywhere, my twenty days" march was through country a peaceful and as tranquil fas one could find anywhere in the world," said Me. V. Petersen, a veter= oan explorer of Peking's hinterland, on his return, three days ago, foam' an extensive journey made through the Western Hills.
His trip took him through country that has seldom been visited foreigners, but Mr. Petersen reports that he was not bothered on any occasion, and that, on the contrary, when in diMiculties, he was furnished with every assistance by the villagers of whom he sought guidance or assistance.
Carefully planned in advance, it had been anticipated that conditions might cause an alteration of the routes it was proposed to follow, but from, tart to finish, the journey was made fo schedule, with the result that the return to Peking was made a few hours earlier than anticipated, Made entirely on foot by Mr. Petersen, his pack train consisted of two donkeys, which carried the bedding, cooking utensils, some tinned food and the two servanis—weaklings that they were. The accommodation found at inns or temples was clean and gen-ferally comfortable, the cost of tray Tow, and conditions such that the total expenditure over "the twenty days' {travelling only amounted to §77.
It Is unfortunate that no pictures are available to show the beauty of this Tittle known hinterland that ties within easy" striking distance of Peking, which must eventually prove for those willing to leave Much of the country traversed is wooded, the valleys deep-cut by rushing torrents that have to be forded and reforded during the day's march, ant were abundant from. the fcountey will" provide al that sportsman can want, The "Lost Tri Than there are the points of intereat to be visited during the trip, such as the visit paid to the "Lost Tribe," remnants. of those who stood as the Inst guard at the time of the invasion of China by the Manchus in. 1044, When Wu San-kuei, throwing in his Jot with the invaders, put the attempt of Ti Tsixche the reins of power and the actual bitter of Li's government of China. Faithful to the
their the Western Hills to the valley of the Chu Ma Ho to a point just west of the Po Hus Mountain, Strong enough to hold the passes, this determined band was left untroubled by the new dynasty, which had weightier affairs fon its hands. Once peace and order had followed the march of conquest, representatives of the 300 came with shaven heads to pay allegiance to the telumphant Manchus, who in welcom~ Ing the submission, yet stipulated that forgiveness was conditional upon the band remaining where they were, Natural obstacles added to the dit-culties of communication, and this devoted band, in returning to their ow home. became indeed. the "lost tribe." They were permitted little or hho communication with those who lived nearby; yet, the Manchus were generous in allowing them to send back to Shansi for their wives. There they have lived for the past 290 years 'The tribe is now estimated at some 5000" strong, and. they have main-|d {tained intact throughout the years their original characteristics. Mr. Petersen reports that most of the men still wear pigtails, symbol of their: Submission, whilst' the women have not abandoned their somewhat ori-inal method of dressing their hair. Intermarriage has resulted in signs of decadence that are particularly notice the men, although this decad-erally appears to take the form of weakness rather than vicious the conversation, although it is easy to make himself understood.
This. then, is one of the highlights of the trip that yet furnished many other points of interest and beauty.
Tt would, perhaps, be as well to sketch roughly the itinerary followed by Mr. Petersen in his trip that was paris exploratory, for he followed some roads that have probably seldom een covered by the foreigner.
"The actual preparations for the trip are simple and can be made in. Peking within the space of 48 hours. Tels advisable to travel with a cook-doy and a general factotum who is at the same time capable of serving as 9 translator in those districts where the local dialect is incomprehensible the student of Mandarin.
As far as luggage is concerned, 2 camp bed is recommended for it ren course, the more necessary cooking utensils. Whilst the country can be lived on, those used to the flesh pots should prepare against the inevitable when luxury is desired, by pack-Ing some tinned provender, with tea or coffee, and milk and sugar of course, "Another—recommendation made by Mr, Petersen is a small medicine chest for there is nothing that gains the goodwill of the inhabitants so much as even the most amateurish of doctoring of their ills Winerary of Trip In Mr, Petersen's case, the journey started by rail from Peking to Liu-ihe, one of the stations along the Peking-Hankow railway. From there the first march was made to Shang-fatshan, noted for its caves. The Journey' is uninteresting and. fairly fat, but this is redeemed by " the unusual features. presented by the second eaves which are divided into six large Bloomy chambers from the roots of Which hang a series of stalatites. A motor road is actually under con struction from Liuliho, and it is possible that, within a month or 30, a bus service will be running through this section.
The next. stage took the traveller to the Chu Ma Ho Valley with a stop at Lungwangtsun, and it is one of the only stages that are marked in Mr. Petersen's notebook as being without articular interest.
Tt was from the fourth day that the traveller encountered the wonderful scenery that he traversed throughout the major portion of this cular journey. The Chu Ma Ho Valley cads to the hill guarded area within which the "Lost. Tribe" lives, and here the first signs of game are found.
The river itself is a rushing clear torrent that in places has cut for itself channel, cliff bounded, that is a half mile wide. 'Though' not extensively wooded, the bare reaches of the limestone hills are covered by heavy undergrowth which compensate by their greenery for the lack of trees, This road goes from Lungwangstun to Lungwangmiao, through Nanshikmen, past Peichuang through the very heart of the "Lost Tribe" dis-{elet, up to the remnants of the Great Wall which here strangely meanders 9ff to the west. The latter part of the march through the famed Lung Men Pass flanked by grim bastions that have withstood the ravages of close fon 2,000 years, is perhaps the most Deautifut part of the whole journey.
"The march ended at Yangchlaping, the location of the Trappist Monastery. The road rung through country of surpassing beauty. The river, swollen and magnificent in its all conquering sweep, rushes through the cut pass ever which broods Lung Men, silent witness of the activities of true China, ever since the days of the Han.
"For those whose hearts lie in the hills and mountains, the journey from the Trappe on, will provide an ever abiding memory of a dificult tramp through beautiful country, up to a height of 4.700 fect the summit of a ass Shihpap'anling, from which the Snow crowned heights of Tsiaowut™ taishan were visible in the Western Cut off from the world, their traditions inviolate, they are practically as greatly removed from the clamour of fife as are their neighbours beyond. the Lung Men Pass, the Trappists, who have their monastery a day's march from the northern end of the area. in which the "Lost Tribe" is Settled. For those who would be interested in further details regarding the origin and present day conditions of this interesting people, there is no better reference than the pamphlet written some years ago by Dr. J. Ingram and published by the "Peking Leader" Press.
Dr. Ingram at that time, reported that the language prevalent throughout the valley could be understood with some difficulty, but latest reports Indicate that a foreigner more than well versed ju the Chinese language has great difficulty in understanding Aistance.
Fru Grchards are in evidence slong the whole of this part of the fand the glorious walnut tree of North China is particularly in evidence, for this is the district that furnishes Tientsin with much of its supplies of walnuts which find their way to the western coast of the United States, to compete with the home grown.
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.