Europeans, I then wrote, hold widely different opinions about Tokyo. Some deplore its modernity, and sigh over the top hats and frock-coats which have replaced silks and brocades. Personally I am delighted with Tokyo, I know that every Japanese gentleman pulls off his collar as soon as he reaches home, and gets into a comfortable kimono. European civilization is still a merest veneer, and beneath it beats the pulse of old Yedo.
It is a noble capital, though the streets are not imposing. No Japanese street could ever be that, because the houses are too frail and the grey colour of the tiles is too sombre. But the thoroughfares of Tokyo are teeming with life. There is a perfect maze of electric wires overhead indicating the complex modern life of the people, There are too some fine buildings here and there, such as the Law: Courts, the Admiralty and the Imperial Theatre, At night the streets are more fascinating still, Stalls are set up on the pavement all down the Ginza, and every third shop, at least, sells curios, (Note: stalls, of course, are still a feature of the Ginza, but the curio shops are few and contain nothing but rubbish), -It is an unending delight to search along the streets for treasures of bronze and ivory: and at the end of the evening you hardly know whether to congratulate yourself on your. purchases, or to deplore, this addition of awkward packages to the luggage. But aht, that priceless rubbish will bring back happy memories. (I still possess a sixteenth century Kobe Dashi bought on one of those night rambles), Severe Earthquake A severe earthquake made my first night in Tokyo exciting.—(Note: This was on the night of May 30/31, 1912), and it lasted no less than twelve minutes till many people be-Came quite hysterical, There were three shakes during my residence in Japan.
What is pleasing is that in this country you are free to go almost anywhere you like: but the most difficult place to enter is a Japanese gentleman's home. You will perhaps be asked to dinner—but it will be at the Maple Club, or at one of the hotels. The reason is that the Oriental shyness about exhibiting womenfolk to strangers still persists deep down in the Japanese heart. (Note: I am not so sure about all this now, but it is what I wrote then).
The spirit of old Yedo still lives beneath the surface. In the trams of Tokyo you often sce men giving up their seats to women, The custom was only imported five years ago. (Note: they still give up their seats, but I thought I noticed that the consideration is really more on account of the children than of the woman, but T could never quite make up my mind about this). At a hotel, and in European dress, the man opens the door for his wife: but at home, and in kimono, the wife waits upon her husband, and dines separately afterwards.
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.