Paris dress collections this season have been sporadic but admirable. Some of the bigger designers have shown no clothes at all and one at least has been occupied in making comforts for soldiers. Another has had a show in New York.
But, despite unheard-of difficulties, Paris early recognized the need for using one of its big industries for export purposes and, despite wholesale calling-up, the dress designers have rallied and have produced style, even if the number of models has been curtailed.
One interesting feature is the abyss, as far as clothes are concerned, between the countries at war and the neutrals. For the United States lavish evening dresses and other more exotic clothes have been designed. For Europe styles have been subdued and the very practical has predominated, at least verbally.
One of the most practical effects is seen in the wholesale revival of the figured silk dress and wool coat. This is the easiest mode of dressing for the summer and one of the gayest. Figured dresses, are exceedingly becoming and can be picked up with flowers and cut for afternoon or semi-evening uses. Rather vivid colouring is used, often with a small or well-covered pattern. The long sleeve and the corset waist are conspicuous, as well as a good deal of fullness at the back of the skirt.
Molyneux changes his styles a good deal without ever seeming to do. so. This season he shows a slightly lower waistline, with a bloused bodice and very slim skirts, These are made easy for walking by means of back fullness. The silk skirt with the bloused back, in particular, has an elegant effect and provides slimness. For day purposes navy blue is again to the fore, and many dresses are made of thin wool, some with jackets and some with long, slim belted coats.
Besides the woollen outfits, coloured prints are many at this de signer's, the most conspicuous showing the arms and emblems of Finland on a blue ground. These are worn with simply cut overcoats or with loose or tailored coats of the same that a triangle is cut clean out of the brim. The back has a large flower which surmounts the chignon. Hats of this kind need fullness behind the ears. The chignon is therefore wide enough to show a little when seen from the front,
Text read from the printed page and cleaned; old type leaves the occasional error.